Master Switch Input Test

NOTE: The power window control unit is built into the power window master switch, and it only controls the driver's window operations.

Remove the switch panel from the door panel (see DOOR PANEL REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ).
Disconnect the 14P connector (B) from the master switch (A).

Fig 1: Disconnecting 14P Connector From Master Switch
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
- If the terminals look OK, go to step 4.

With the connector still disconnected, make these input tests at the connector.

If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.

If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 5.

INPUT TEST (CONNECTOR DISCONNECTED)

Cavity	Wire	Test condition	Test: Desired result	Possible cause if result is not obtained
10	BLK	Under all conditions	Check for continuity to ground: There should be continuity.	Poor ground (G401) An open in the wire
14	BLK	Under all conditions	Check for continuity to ground: There should be continuity.	Poor ground (G401) An open in the wire
12	YEL/GRN	Ignition switch ON (II)	Check for voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage.	Blown No. 6 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box An open in the wire
11	GRN/WHT	Under all conditions	Check for voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage.	Blown No. 23 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box An open in the wire
2	GRN/BLK	Ignition switch ON (II)	Check for voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage.	Blown No. 13 (40 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box Blown No. 6 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box Blown No. 22 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box Faulty power window relay Faulty power window relay ground or wire An open in the wire
4	RED/BLK	Connect the No. 7 and No. 11 terminals, and the No. 4 and No. 14 terminals.	Check for driver's window motor operation: It should run (the driver's window moves down).	Poor ground (G401) Faulty driver's window motor An open in the wire
7	RED/YEL
1	BLU/WHT	Connect the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals, and the No. 3 and No. 10 terminals, and turn the ignition switch ON (II).	Check for passenger's window motor operation: It should run (the passenger's window moves down).	Poor ground (G401) Fault passenger's window motor Fault passenger's window switch An open in the wire
3	BLU/RED

Reconnect the 14P connector to the switch, and perform the following input tests.

If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.

If all the input tests prove OK, the control unit must be faulty; replace the power window master switch.

INPUT TEST (CONNECTOR CONNECTED)

Cavity	Wire	Test condition	Test: Desired result	Possible cause if result is not obtained
5	RED/WHT	Ignition switch ON (II)	Check for voltage to ground: There should be 5 V or more.	Faulty power window master switch Short to ground in the wire
6	LT GRN	Under all conditions	Check for voltage to ground: There should be less than 1 V.	An open in the wire
13	BLU	Ignition switch ON (II), and the driver's window switch AUTO DOWN	Check for voltage between the No. 13 and No. 6 terminals: There should be 0 V - about 5 V-0 V - about 5 V repeatedly (a digital voltmeter reads about 2.5 V while the window moves).	Blown No. 6 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box Blown No. 23 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box Faulty power window relay Faulty power window master switch Short to ground in the wire
8	ORN	Ignition switch ON (II), and the driver's window switch AUTO DOWN	Check for voltage between the No. 8 and No. 6 terminals: There should be 0 V - about 5 V - 0 V - about 5 V repeatedly (a digital voltmeter reads about 2.5 V while the window moves).