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With Keyless Access System

Special Tools Required 

Alternator, Regulator, Battery&Starter tester OTC3131 Available through the Acura Tool and Equipment Program 888-424-6857

NOTE:
  • Air temperature must be within 59-100°F (15-38°C) during this procedure
  • After the inspection, you must reset the powertrain control module (PCM) Otherwise, the PCM will continue to stop the fuel injectors from operating
  • The battery must be in good condition and fully charged
  1. Remove the engine compartment covers (see ENGINE COMPARTMENT COVER REPLACEMENT )
  2. Connect the alternator, regulator, battery&starter tester (OTC3131) to the battery as shown
    NOTE: The probe is not used for battery testing
    Fig 1: Connecting Alternator, Regulator, Battery And Starter Tester (OTC3131) To Battery
    G05986502Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
  3. Do the BATTERY TEST

    Does the display indicate GOOD or GOOD, LOW CHARGE? 

    YES  -The battery is OK Charge the battery if necessary, then go to step 4

    NO  -If the display indicates BAD BATTERY, replace the battery, then retest If the display indicates CHARGE&RETEST, charge the battery, then retest

  4. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the data link connector (DLC) (see step 2 on GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION )
  5. Press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode
  6. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the PCM If it does not communicate, troubleshoot the DLC circuit (see DLC CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING )
  7. Select ALL INJECTORS STOP in the PGM-FI INSPECTION menu with the HDS
  8. Set the parking brake, then with the clutch pedal pressed (M/T model) or the shifter in N or P (A/T model), and press the brake pedal and press the start/stop button to select the engine START mode to crank the engine
    NOTE: The auto-start function cranks the engine until it starts, or for 15 seconds if the engine does not start

    Does the starter crank the engine normally? 

    YES  -The starting system is OK Go to step  17

    NO  -Go to step 9

  9. Press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode
  10. Check the electrical connections at the battery, the negative battery cable to the body, the engine ground cables, and the starter for looseness and corrosion Then try cranking the engine again

    Does the starter crank the engine normally? 

    YES  -Repairing the loose connection corrected the problem The starting system is OK Go to step  17

    NO  -Based on the following symptoms, take the appropriate action

    • If the starter does not crank the engine at all, go to step 11
    • If the starter cranks the engine erratically or too slowly, go to step  15
    • If the starter does not disengage from the flywheel ring gear (M/T model) or the torque converter ring gear (A/T model) when you release the key, replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for the following:
      • Starter solenoid and switch malfunction
      • Dirty drive gear or damaged overrunning clutch
      • Damaged flywheel ring gear or torque converter ring gear
  11. Make sure the shift lever is in neutral (M/T model) or N or P (A/T model), then disconnect the connector (A) from the starter S terminal Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the S terminal
    Fig 2: Identifying Connector And Starter S Terminal (M/T Model)
    G00492175Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
    Fig 3: Identifying Connector And Starter S Terminal (A/T Model
    G05986503Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.

    Does the starter crank the engine? 

    YES  -Go to step 12 (M/T model), or step  13 (A/T model)

    NO  -Remove the starter (see STARTER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION ), then repair or replace it as necessary

  12. M/T model: Check the following items in the order listed until you find the problem in the circuit
    NOTE: After the problem in the circuit is found and repaired, go to step  17
    • A blown No 8 (7 5 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box
    • Check for an open or short in the WHT wire and connectors between the starter cut relay 1, the power control unit, and the under-hood fuse/relay box
    • Check for an open or short in the PNK wire and connectors between the starter cut relay 1 and the PCM
    • Check for an open or short in the BRN wire and connectors between the starter cut relay 1 and the starter cut relay 2
    • Check for an open or short in the WHT wire, BLK/WHT wire, and connectors between the starter cut relay 2 and the starter
    • Check for an open or short in the LT GRN wire and connectors between the power control unit and the PCM
    • Check for an open or short in the LT GRN wire and connectors between the PCM, the starter cut relay 1
    • Check for an open or short in the PNK wire and connectors between the power control unit, the starter cut relay 2, the clutch pedal position switch A, and the ECM.
    • Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the starter cut relay 1 and body ground (G301)
    • Check for an open or short in the LT GRN wire and connectors between the starter cut cut relay 1 and the +B cut relay
    • Check for an open or short in the GRY wire and connectors between the starter cut cut relay 2 and the +B cut relay
    • Check for a faulty clutch pedal position switch A (see Clutch Pedal Position Switch A Test )
    • Check for faulty +B cut relay (see HIGH MOUNT BRAKE LIGHT REPLACEMENT )
  13. A/T model: Check the following items in the order listed until you find the problem in the circuit
    NOTE: After the problem in the circuit is found and repaired, go to step  17
    • A blown No 8 (7 5 A) fuse and No 13 (15 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box
    • Check for an open or short in the WHT wire and connectors between the starter cut relay 1, the power control unit, and the under-hood fuse/relay box
    • Check for an open or short in the PNK wire and connectors between the starter cut relay 1 and the PCM
    • Check for an open or short in the BRN wire and connectors between the starter cut relay 1 and the starter cut relay 2
    • Check for an open or short in the WHT wire, BLK/WHT wire, and connectors between the starter cut relay 2 and the starter
    • Check for an open or short in the LT GRN wire and connectors between the power control unit and the PCM
    • Check for an open or short in the LT GRN wire and connectors between the PCM, the starter cut relay 1, and the starter cut relay 2
    • Check for an open or short in the PNK wire and connectors between the starter cut relay 1 and the starter cut relay 2
    • Check for an open or short in the PNK wire, BLU/WHT wire, and connectors between the starter cut relay 1, the starter cut relay 2, and the transmission range switch
    • Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the transmission range switch and body ground (G101)
    • Check for an open or short in the LT GRN wire and connectors between the power control unit, the brake pedal position switch, and the PCM
    • Check for an open or short in the RED wire and connectors between the brake pedal position switch and the under-hood fuse/relay box
    • Check for a faulty transmission range switch (see TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH TEST )
    • Check for a faulty starter cut relay 1 and the starter cut relay 2 (see POWER RELAY TEST )
    • Check for faulty brake pedal position switch (see HIGH MOUNT BRAKE LIGHT REPLACEMENT )
  14. Connect the alternator, regulator, battery and starter tester (OTC3131) to the battery.
    NOTE: The probe is used for starter testing
    Fig 4: Checking Starting Test With Alternator, Regulator, Battery And Starter Tester
    G05986504Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
  15. Do the STARTING TEST

    Does the display indicate cranking voltage greater than or equal to 8.5 V (M/T model), 8.0 V (A/T model) and is the current draw less than or equal to 380 A (M/T model) 375 A (A/T model)? 

    YES  -Go to step 16

    NO  -Replace the starter (see STARTER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION ), or remove and disassemble it:

    and check for these problems

    • Drag in the starter armature
    • Short in the armature winding
    • Excessive drag in the engine
    • Open circuit in starter armature commutator segments
    • Excessively worn starter brushes
    • Open circuit in the starter brushes
    • Dirty or damaged helical splines or drive gear
    • Faulty overrunning clutch
  16. Remove the starter, and inspect its drive gear and the flywheel ring gear (M/T model) the torque converter ring gear (A/T model) for damage Replace any damaged parts
  17. Select PCM reset (see ECM/PCM RESET ) in the PGM-FI INSPECTION menu to cancel ALL INJECTORS STOP with the HDS
  18. Install the engine compartment covers (see ENGINE COMPARTMENT COVER REPLACEMENT )
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