Left Rear Power Window Switch Input Test
- Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
- Remove the left rear power window switch (see POWER WINDOW MASTER SWITCH REPLACEMENT ).
- Disconnect the 14P connector (A) from the left rear power window switch (B).
- Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary and recheck the system.
- If the terminals look OK, go to step 5.
- With the connector still disconnected, do the following input tests.
- If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
- If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 6.TEST CONDITION AND WIRE REFERENCE CHART
Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if desired result is not obtained 2 GRY Driver's under-dash fuse/relay box connector H (14P) disconnected Check for continuity between terminal No. 2 and driver's under-dash fuse/relay box connector H (14P) terminal No. 4:
There should be continuity.An open or high resistance in the wire Check for continuity to ground:
There should be no continuity.A short to ground in the wire 1 YEL Connect terminals No. 8 and No. 1 with a jumper wire, and connect terminal No. 7 to body ground. Check the left rear power window motor operation:
The motor should run (the window should go down).- Blown No. 24 (20 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box
- Faulty left rear power window motor
- An open or high resistance in the wire
7 BLU Connect terminals No. 8 and No. 7 with a jumper wire, and connect terminal No. 1 to body ground. Check the left rear power window motor operation:
The motor should run (the window should go up).- Blown No. 24 (20 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box
- Faulty left rear power window motor
- An open or high resistance in the wire
- Reconnect the connector to the left rear power window switch, and do the following input tests.
- If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
- If all the input tests prove OK, the left rear power window switch must be faulty; replace it (see POWER WINDOW MASTER SWITCH REPLACEMENT
) and go to step 7.TEST CONDITION AND WIRE REFERENCE CHART
Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if desired result is not obtained 6 BLK In all ignition switch positions Measure the voltage to ground:
There should be less than 0.2 V.- Poor ground (G601)
- An open or high resistance in the ground wire
14 BLK In all ignition switch positions Measure the voltage to ground:
There should be less than 0.2 V.- Poor ground (G601)
- An open or high resistance in the ground wire
8 RED Under all conditions Measure the voltage to ground:
There should be battery voltage.- Blown No. 23 (P/W) (50 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box
- Blown No. 24 (20 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box
- Faulty driver's under-dash fuse/relay box
- An open or high resistance in the wire
3 PNK Ignition switch ON (II) Measure the voltage to ground:
There should be battery voltage.- Faulty left rear power window switch
- An open or high resistance in the wire
5 GRN Ignition switch ON (II) and left rear power window motor runs by connecting terminals No. 8 and No. 1 with a jumper wire, and connect terminal No. 7 to body ground. Measure the voltage between terminals No. 5 and No. 6:
An analog meter should alternate between 0 V and about 5 V (a digital voltmeter reads about 2.5 V while the window moves).- Blown No. 24 (20 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box
- Faulty left rear power window switch
- Faulty left rear power window motor
- An open or high resistance in the wire
4 ORN Ignition switch ON (II) and left rear power window motor runs by connecting terminals No. 8 and No. 1 with a jumper wire, and connect terminal No. 7 to body ground. Measure the voltage between terminals No. 4 and No. 6:
An analog meter should alternate between 0 V and about 5 V (a digital voltmeter reads about 2.5 V while the window moves).- Blown No. 24 (20 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box
- Faulty left rear power window switch
- Faulty left rear power window motor
- An open or high resistance in the wire
- Reset the power window control unit (see RESETTING THE POWER WINDOW CONTROL UNIT ).