Power Window Master Switch Input Test
NOTE:
Before testing, troubleshoot the multiplex integrated control unit first, using B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode A (see
TROUBLESHOOTING - B-CAN SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS TEST MODE A
).
- Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), or press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
- Open and close the driver's door, then remove the driver's door panel (see FRONT DOOR PANEL REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ).
- Disconnect the power window master switch 37P connector (A) from the power window master switch (B).
- Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
- If the terminals look OK, go to step 5.
- Reconnect the driver's door harness to driver's door subharness.
- With the power window master switch 37P connector still disconnected from the power window master switch, do the following input tests:
- If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
- If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 7.
Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if desired result is not obtained 12 YEL Turn the ignition switch ON (II), or power mode ON connect terminals No. 25 and No. 24 (or No. 12), and terminals No. 12 (or No. 24) and No. 37 with jumper wires. Check driver's power window motor operation: The driver's power window should open (or close). - Faulty driver's power window motor
- An open or high resistance in the wire
24 GRN 23 GRN Turn the ignition switch ON (II), or power mode ON connect terminals No. 25 and No. 36 (or No. 23). Check left rear power window motor operation: The left rear power window should open (or close). - Faulty left rear power window switch
- Faulty left rear power window motor
- Poor ground(G601)or an open in the ground wire
- An open or high resistance in the wire
36 PUR 21 LT BLU Turn the ignition switch ON (II), or power mode ON connect terminals No. 25 and No. 34 (or No. 21). Check right rear power window motor operation: The right rear power window should open (or close). - Faulty passenger's under-dash fuse/relay box
- Faulty right rear power window switch
- Faulty right rear power window motor
- Poor ground (G651) or an open in the ground wire
- An open or high resistance in the wire
34 RED 26 YEL Turn the ignition switch ON (II), or power mode ON connect terminals No. 25 and No. 26 with a jumper wire. Check left and right rear power window switch lights: The left and right rear power window switch lights should come on. - Blown No. 24 (20 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box
- Faulty LED
- Faulty left or right rear power window switch
- Poor ground (G601 or G651) or an open in the ground wire
- A short to ground in the wire
- An open or high resistance in the wire
27 PNK Disconnect the front passenger's power window switch 37P connector and moonroof control unit/motor 14P connector Check for continuity between power window master switch terminal No. 27 and front passenger's power window switch 37P connector terminal No. 29: There should be continuity. An open in the UART wire Check for continuity to ground: There should be no continuity. A short to ground in the wire
- Reconnect the connector to the power window master switch, turn the ignition switch, or press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode, and do the following input tests:
- If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
- If all the input tests prove OK, the door multiplex control unit is faulty; replace the power window master switch (see POWER WINDOW MASTER SWITCH REPLACEMENT
).NOTE: After replacing the power window master switch, reset the power window control unit (see RESETTING THE POWER WINDOW CONTROL UNIT ).
Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if desired result is not obtained 13 WHT Under all conditions Measure the voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. - Blown No. 15 (10 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box
- Faulty driver's under-dash fuse/relay box
- An open or high resistance in the wire
14 LT GRN Ignition switch ON (II), or power mode ON Measure the voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. - Blown No. 16 (7.5 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box
- Faulty driver's under-dash fuse/relay box
- An open or high resistance in the wire
25 WHT Under all conditions Measure the voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. - Blown No. 24 (20 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box
- Faulty driver's under-dash fuse/relay box
- An open or high resistance in the wire
32 BLK In all ignition switch positions or all power modes Measure the voltage to ground: There should be less than 0.2 V. - Poor ground (G401)
- An open or high resistance in the ground wire
37 BLK In all ignition switch positions or all power modes Measure the voltage to ground: There should be less than 0.2 V. - Poor ground (G402)
- An open or high resistance in the ground wire
3 BRN Ignition switch ON (II), or power mode ON Measure the voltage to ground: There should be at least about 10 V. - Faulty power window master switch
- A short to ground in the wire
20 BLU Ignition switch ON (II), or power mode ON and driver's power window moving up or down Measure the voltage between terminals No. 20 and No. 37: An analog meter should alternate between 0 V and about 5 V (a digital voltmeter should read about 2.5 V while the window moves). - Faulty power window master switch
- Faulty driver's power window motor
- An open or high resistance in the wire
- A short to ground in the wire
22 RED Ignition switch ON (II), or power ON and driver's power window moving up or down Measure the voltage between the terminals No. 22 and No. 37: An analog meter should alternate between 0 V and about 5 V (a digital voltmeter should read about 2.5 V while the window moves). - Faulty power window master switch
- Faulty driver's power window motor
- An open or high resistance in the wire
- A short to ground in the wire