Alternator Overhaul: Overhaul
NOTE:
Refer to the EXPLODED VIEW as needed during this procedure.
- Test the alternator and regulator before you remove them (see ALTERNATOR AND REGULATOR CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING ).
- Remove the alternator (see ALTERNATOR REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION ).
- If the front bearing needs replacing, remove the pulley locknut with a 10 mm wrench (A) and a 22 mm wrench (B). If necessary, use an impact wrench.
- Remove the three flange nuts (A) and the screw (B) from the alternator, then remove the terminal plate (C).
- Remove the washer nut (A) and the terminal insulator (B) from the B terminal, then remove the end cover (C) and the brush holder insulator (D).
- Remove the brush holder.
- Remove the voltage regulator.
- Remove the four screws (A), then remove the rectifier (B) and the rubber seal (C).
- Remove the four flange nuts.
- Remove the four insulators (A), the rear housing (B), and the washer (C).
- If you are not replacing the front bearing and/or the rear bearing, go to step 18. Remove the rotor from the stator drive-end housing.
- Inspect the rotor shaft for scoring, and inspect the bearing journal surface in the stator drive-end housing for seizure marks.
- If either the rotor or stator drive-end housing is damaged, replace the alternator.
- If both the rotor and the stator drive-end housing are OK, go to step 13.
- Remove the rear bearing using a puller as shown.
- With a hammer and the commercially available tools shown, install a new rear bearing on the rotor shaft.
- Remove the bearing retainer.
- Support the stator drive-end housing in a vise, and drive out the front bearing with a brass drift (A) and hammer.
- Install a new front bearing in the stator drive-end housing with a hammer, the driver, and the attachment.
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
Rectifier Test
- Check for continuity in each direction, between the B terminal and the P terminals, and between the E terminal and the P terminals of each diode pair. All diodes should have continuity in only one direction. Because the rectifier diodes are designed to allow current to pass in one direction, and the rectifier is made up of eight diodes (four pairs), you must test each diode in both directions for continuity with an ohmmeter that has diode checking capability, a total of 16 checks.
- If any diode is faulty, replace the rectifier assembly. (Diodes are not available separately.)
- If all the diodes are OK, go to step 19.
Alternator Brush Inspection
- Measure the length of both brushes (A) with a vernier caliper (B).
- If either brush is shorter than the service limit, replace the brush assembly.
- If brush length is OK, go to step 20.
Alternator Brush Length:
Standard (New): 10.5 mm (0.41 in.)
Service Limit: 1.5 mm (0.06 in.)
Rotor Slip Ring Test
- Check for continuity between the slip rings (A).
- If there is continuity, go to step 21.
- If there is no continuity, replace the rotor assembly.
- Check for continuity between each slip ring and the rotor (B) and the rotor shaft (C).
- If there is no continuity, go to step 22.
- If there is continuity, replace the rotor assembly.
Stator Test
- Check for continuity between each pair of leads (A).
- If there is no continuity, go to step 23.
- If there is no continuity, replace the alternator.
- Check for continuity between each lead and the coil core (B).
- If there is no continuity, go to step 24.
- If there is continuity, replace the alternator.
Alternator Reassembly
- Reassemble the alternator in the reverse order of disassembly, and note these items:
- Be careful not to get any grease or oil on the slip rings.
- If you removed the pulley, tighten its locknut to 111 N.m (11.3 kgf.m, 81.7 lbf.ft) when you reinstall it.