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Symptom Troubleshooting Index

TROUBLESHOOTING CHART

Symptom Probable Cause(s) Notes
When you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), the D indicator comes on and stays on in all shift lever positions, or it never comes on at all
  • F-CAN communication line error
  • Gauge control module defective
  • PCM defective
A/T gear position indicator does not come on while the shift lever is in that position
  • F-CAN communication line error
  • Gauge control module defective
  • PCM defective
  • Transmission range switch defective
  • Shift cable broken or out of adjustment
  • Connection between the shift cable and transmission or body is worn
  • Check the F-CAN communication line for a DTC (see F-CAN CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING ).
  • Check the A/T gear position indicator drive circuit in the gauge control module by using the gauge control module self-diagnostic function (see SELF-DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION ).
  • Inspect the transmission range switch (see TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH TEST ).
  • Check for a loose shift cable at the shift lever and the selector control shaft.
Transmission still shifts into 4th or 5th gear in D even though the D3 switch is pushed
  • D3 switch defective
  • D3 switch circuit defective
  • Transmission range switch defective
Shift lever cannot be moved from P while pressing on the brake pedal
  • Shift lock solenoid defective
  • Shift lock solenoid control circuit
  • Shift lock mechanism defective
  • Brake pedal position switch circuit
  • Brake pedal position switch defective
  • Accelerator pedal position sensor circuit
  • Accelerator pedal position sensor defective
  • Throttle body defective
  • Transmission range switch ATPP switch stuck OFF
  • Transmission range switch ATPP switch line opened
Ignition switch cannot be moved from ACCESSORY (1) to LOCK (0) (key is pushed in, the shift lever in P)
  • Interlock control system circuit
  • Key interlock solenoid stuck ON
  • Park pin switch stuck OFF
  • Transmission range switch
HDS does not communicate with the PCM DLC circuit error Troubleshoot the DLC circuit (see DLC CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING ).
Engine runs, but vehicle does not move in any gear
  1. Low ATF level
  2. Shift cable broken or out of adjustment
  3. Connection between the shift cable and transmission or body is worn
  4. ATF pump worn or binding
  5. Regulator valve stuck or spring worn
  6. ATF strainer clogged
  7. Mainshaft worn or damaged
  8. Final gears worn or damaged
  9. Transmission-to-engine assembly error
  10. Axle disengaged
  • Check the ATF level, and check the ATF cooler lines for leaks and loose connections. If necessary, clean the ATF cooler lines.
  • Check for a loose shift cable at the shift lever and the selector control shaft.
  • Improper alignment of ATF pump and torque converter housing may cause ATF pump seizure. The symptoms are mostly an rpm-related ticking noise or a high pitched squeak.
  • Check the line pressure.
  • Be careful not to damage the torque converter housing when replacing the main ball bearing. You may also damage the ATF pump when you torque down the main valve body. This will result in ATF pump seizure if not detected. Use the proper tools.
  • Install the main seal flush with the torque converter housing. If you push it into the torque converter housing until it bottoms out, it will block the fluid return passage and result in damage.
  • Check the ATF strainer for debris. If the ATF strainer is clogged with particles of steel or aluminum, inspect the ATF pump. If the ATF pump is OK, find the damaged components that caused the debris. If no cause for contamination is found, replace the torque converter.
  • Inspect the differential pinion gears for wear. If the differential pinion gears are worn, replace the differential assembly, replace the ATF strainer, thoroughly clean the transmission, and clean the torque converter, cooler, and lines.
Vehicle moves in 2 and R, but not in D or 1
  1. 1st accumulator defective
  2. 1st gears worn or damaged
  3. 1st clutch defective
  • Check the 1st clutch pressure.
  • Inspect the clutch piston, the clutch piston check valve, and the O-rings. Check the spring retainer and the retainer seal for wear and damage. Inspect the clearance between the clutch end-plate and the top disc. If the clearance is out of tolerance, inspect the clutch discs and the plates for wear and damage. If the discs are worn or damaged, replace them as a set. Inspect the clutch wave-plate height. If the height is out of tolerance, replace the wave-plate. If the discs and the plates are OK, adjust the clearance with the clutch end-plate.
  • Inspect the 1st clutch feed pipe. If the 1st clutch feed pipe is scored, replace the end cover.
  • Replace the secondary shaft if the bushing for the 1st clutch feed pipe is loose or damaged.
  • Check the 1st accumulator piston, the O-ring and the springs in the regulator valve body for wear and damage.
Vehicle moves in D, 1, and R, but not in 2
  1. 2nd accumulator defective
  2. 2nd gears worn or damaged
  3. 2nd clutch defective
  • Check the 2nd clutch pressure.
  • Inspect the clutch piston, the clutch piston check valve, and the O-rings. Check the spring retainer and the retainer seal for wear, damage, and peeling. Inspect the clearance between the clutch end-plate and the top disc. If the clearance is out of tolerance, inspect the clutch discs and the plates for wear and damage. If the discs are worn or damaged, replace them as a set. Inspect the clutch wave-plate height. If the height is out of tolerance, replace the wave-plate. If the discs and the plates are OK, adjust the clearance with the clutch end-plate.
  • Check the 2nd accumulator piston, the O-ring and the springs in the servo valve body for wear and damage.
Vehicle moves in D, 2, and 1, but not in R
  1. Shift solenoid valve E defective
  2. Shift fork shaft stuck
  3. Shift valve E defective
  4. 4th accumulator defective
  5. 4th clutch defective
  6. Reverse gears worn or damaged
  • Check for a stored DTC, and check for loose connectors.
  • Inspect shift solenoid valve E for seizure, and the O-rings for wear and damage.
  • Check for a missing shift fork bolt on the shift fork shaft.
  • Check shift valve E in the main valve body for free movement, and check the shift valve E spring for wear and damage.
  • Check the 4th clutch pressure.
  • Inspect the clutch piston, the clutch piston check valve, and the O-rings. Check the spring retainer for wear and damage. Inspect the clearance between the clutch end-plate and the top disc. If the clearance is out of tolerance, inspect the clutch discs and the plates for wear and damage. If the discs are worn or damaged, replace them as a set. Inspect the clutch wave-plate height. If the height is out of tolerance, replace the wave-plate. If the discs and the plates are OK, adjust the clearance with the clutch end-plate.
  • Inspect the reverse selector teeth chamfers, and inspect the engagement teeth chamfers of the countershaft 4th gear and the reverse gear. Replace the reverse gears and the reverse selector if they are worn or damaged. If the transmission makes a clicking, grinding, or whirring noise, also replace the mainshaft 4th gear, the reverse idler gear, and the countershaft 4th gear.
Poor acceleration; flares when starting off in D and R; stall speed high in 2 and 1, and in D in 1st and 2nd
  1. Low ATF level
  2. Shift cable broken or out of adjustment
  3. ATF pump worn or binding
  4. Regulator valve stuck or spring worn
  5. ATF strainer clogged
  6. Torque converter check valve defective
  • Check the ATF level, and check the ATF cooler lines for leaks and loose connections. If necessary, clean the ATF cooler lines.
  • Check for a loose shift cable at the shift lever and the selector control shaft.
  • Improper alignment of ATF pump and torque converter housing may cause ATF pump seizure. The symptoms are mostly an rpm-related ticking noise or a high pitched squeak.
  • Check the ATF strainer for debris. If the ATF strainer is clogged with particles of steel or aluminum, inspect the ATF pump. If the ATF pump is OK, find the damaged components that caused the debris. If no cause for contamination is found, replace the torque converter.
Poor acceleration; flares when starting off in D and R; stall speed high when starting off in 2 2nd clutch defective
  • Check the 2nd clutch pressure.
  • Inspect the clutch piston, the clutch piston check valve, and the O-rings. Check the spring retainer and the retainer seal for wear, damage, and peeling. Inspect the clearance between the clutch end-plate and the top disc. If the clearance is out of tolerance, inspect the clutch discs and the plates for wear and damage. If the discs are worn or damaged, replace them as a set. Inspect the clutch wave-plate height. If the height is out of tolerance, replace the wave-plate. If the discs and the plates are OK, adjust the clearance with the clutch end-plate.
Poor acceleration; flares when starting off in D and R; stall speed high in R
  1. Shift cable broken or out of adjustment
  2. 4th clutch defective
  • Check for a loose shift cable at the shift lever and the selector control shaft.
  • Check the 4th clutch pressure.
  • Inspect the clutch piston, the clutch piston check valve, and the O-rings. Check the spring retainer for wear and damage. Inspect the clearance between the clutch end-plate and the top disc. If the clearance is out of tolerance, inspect the clutch discs and the plates for wear and damage. If the discs are worn or damaged, replace them as a set. Inspect the clutch wave-plate height. If the height is out of tolerance, replace the wave-plate. If the discs and the plates are OK, adjust the clearance with the clutch end-plate.
Poor acceleration; stall speed low in 2 and 1, and in Din 1st and 2nd
  1. Shift solenoid valve E defective
  2. Torque converter one-way clutch defective
  3. Engine output low
  4. Torque converter clutch piston defective
  5. Lock-up shift valve defective
  • Check for a stored DTC, and check for loose connectors.
  • Inspect shift solenoid valve E for seizure, and the O-rings for wear and damage.
  • Replace the torque converter.
  • Check the lock-up shift valve in the regulator valve body for free movement, and check the lock-up shift valve spring for wear and damage.
Poor acceleration; stall speed low in R
  1. Engine output low
  2. Torque converter clutch piston defective
  3. Lock-up shift valve defective
  4. Torque converter one-way clutch defective
  • Replace the torque converter.
  • Check the lock-up shift valve in the regulator valve body for free movement, and check the lock-up shift valve spring for wear and damage.
Engine idle vibration
  1. Low ATF level
  2. Shift solenoid valve E defective
  3. Drive plate defective or transmission misassembled
  4. Engine output low
  5. Torque converter clutch piston defective
  6. ATF pump worn or binding
  7. Lock-up shift valve defective
  • Check the ATF level, and check the ATF cooler lines for leaks and loose connections. If necessary, clean the ATF cooler lines.
  • Improper alignment of ATF pump and torque converter housing may cause ATF pump seizure. The symptoms are mostly an rpm-related ticking noise or a high pitched squeak.
  • Inspect the ATF strainer for clogging with particles of steel or aluminum. If the ATF strainer is clogged, replace it, and clean the torque converter, cooler, and lines.
  • Check for a stored DTC, and check for loose connectors.
  • Inspect shift solenoid valve E for seizure, and the O-rings for wear and damage.
  • Check for a misinstalled/damaged drive plate.
  • Check that the idle rpm in gear is the specified idle speed (see IDLE SPEED INSPECTION ). If the idle speed is correct, adjust the engine and the transmission mounts.
  • Replace the torque converter.
  • Check the lock-up shift valve in the regulator valve body for free movement, and check the lock-up shift valve spring for wear and damage.
Vehicle moves in N
  1. Excessive ATF
  2. Foreign material in separator plate orifice
  3. Relief valve defective
  4. 1st clutch defective
  5. 2nd clutch defective
  6. 3rd clutch defective
  7. 4th clutch defective
  8. 5th clutch defective
  9. Clearance between clutch end-plate and top disc incorrect
  10. Needle bearing seized, worn, or damaged
  11. Thrust washer seized, worn, or damaged
  • Check the ATF level, and drain the ATF if it is over-filled.
  • Check for a clogged orifice in the separator plate. If the orifice is clogged, remove it and clean the separator plate orifice.
  • Check the 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th clutch pressures.
  • Check the ATF strainer for debris. If the ATF strainer is clogged with particles of steel or aluminum, inspect the ATF pump. If the ATF pump is OK, find the damaged components that caused the debris. If no cause for contamination is found, replace the torque converter.
  • Check the relief valve in the main valve body for free movement, and check the relief valve spring for wear and damage.
  • Inspect the clutch piston, the clutch piston check valve, and the O-rings. Check the spring retainer and the retainer seal (for 1st, 2nd, and 3rd clutch only) for wear, damage, and peeling. Inspect the clearance between the clutch end-plate and the top disc. If the clearance is out of tolerance, inspect the clutch discs and the plates for wear and damage. If the discs are worn or damaged, replace them as a set. Inspect the clutch wave-plate height. If the height is out of tolerance, replace the wave-plate. If the discs and the plates are OK, adjust the clearance with the clutch end-plate.
  • Inspect the 1st clutch feed pipe. If the 1st clutch feed pipe is scored, replace the end cover.
  • Inspect the 3rd clutch feed pipe. If the 3rd clutch feed pipe is scored, replace it and the O-ring under the feed pipe guide.
  • Replace the secondary shaft if the bushing for the 1st or the 3rd clutch feed pipe is loose or damaged.
  • Inspect the 5th clutch feed pipe. If the 5th clutch feed pipe is scored, replace it and the O-ring under the feed pipe guide.
  • Replace the mainshaft if the bushing for the 5th clutch feed pipe is loose or damaged.
Late shift after shifting from N to D, or excessive shock when shifted into D
  1. Shift solenoid valve E defective
  2. A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A defective
  3. A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B defective
  4. A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C defective
  5. Shift cable broken or out of adjustment
  6. Connection between the shift cable and transmission or body is worn
  7. Input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor defective
  8. Output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor defective
  9. ATF temperature sensor defective
  10. Foreign material in separator plate orifice
  11. Servo control valve defective
  12. 1st accumulator defective
  13. 1st check ball stuck
  14. Lock-up shift valve defective
  15. 1st clutch defective
  • Check for a stored DTC, and check for loose connectors.
  • Inspect shift solenoid valve E for seizure, and the O-rings for wear and damage.
  • Inspect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves A, B, and C filter/gasket and the O-rings for wear and damage, and inspect the solenoid valves for seizure.
  • Check the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor and the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor installation.
  • Check for a loose shift cable at the shift lever and the selector control shaft.
  • Check the 1st clutch pressure.
  • Inspect the clutch piston, the clutch piston check valve, and the O-rings. Check the spring retainer and the retainer seal for wear, damage, and peeling. Inspect the clearance between the clutch end-plate and the top disc. If the clearance is out of tolerance, inspect the clutch discs and the plates for wear and damage. If the discs are worn or damaged, replace them as a set. Inspect the clutch wave-plate height. If the height is out of tolerance, replace the wave-plate. If the discs and the plates are OK, adjust the clearance with the clutch end-plate.
  • Check for a clogged orifice in the separator plate. If the orifice is clogged, remove it and clean the separator plate orifice.
  • Check the servo control valve in the main valve body for free movement, and check the servo control valve spring for wear and damage.
  • Inspect the 1st clutch feed pipe. If the 1st clutch feed pipe is scored, replace the end cover.
  • Replace the secondary shaft if the bushing for the 1st clutch feed pipe is loose or damaged.
  • Check the 1st accumulator piston, the O-ring and the springs in the regulator valve body for wear and damage.
  • Check the lock-up shift valve in the regulator valve body for free movement, and check the lock-up shift valve spring for wear and damage.
Late shift after shifting from N to R, or excessive shock when shifted into R
  1. Shift solenoid valve E defective
  2. A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A defective
  3. Shift cable broken or out of adjustment
  4. Connection between the shift cable and transmission or body is worn
  5. Input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor defective
  6. Output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor defective
  7. ATF temperature sensor defective
  8. Shift fork shaft stuck
  9. Foreign material in separator plate orifice
  10. Shift valve E defective
  11. 4th accumulator defective
  12. Lock-up shift valve defective
  13. 4th clutch defective
  • Check for a stored DTC, and check for loose connectors.
  • Inspect shift solenoid valve E for seizure, and the O-rings for wear and damage.
  • Inspect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A filter/gasket and the O-rings for wear and damage, and inspect the solenoid valves for seizure.
  • Check the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor and the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor installation.
  • Check for a loose shift cable at the shift lever and the selector control shaft.
  • Inspect the clutch piston, the clutch piston check valve, and the O-rings. Check the spring retainer for wear and damage. Inspect the clearance between the clutch end-plate and the top disc. If the clearance is out of tolerance, inspect the clutch discs and the plates for wear and damage. If the discs are worn or damaged, replace them as a set. Inspect the clutch wave-plate height. If the height is out of tolerance, replace the wave-plate. If the discs and the plates are OK, adjust the clearance with the clutch end-plate.
  • Check for a missing shift fork bolt on the shift fork shaft.
  • Check for a clogged orifice in the separator plate. If the orifice is clogged, remove it and clean the separator plate orifice.
  • Check the 4th clutch pressure.
  • Inspect the servo valve and the O-ring for wear and damage.
  • Check shift valve E in the main valve body for free movement, and check the shift valve E spring for wear and damage.
  • Check the lock-up shift valve in the regulator valve body for free movement, and check the lock-up shift valve spring for wear and damage.
Transmission does not shift
  1. Input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor defective
  2. Output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor defective
  • Check for a stored DTC, and check for loose connectors.
  • Check the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor and the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor installation.
Excessive shock or flares on all upshifts and downshifts
  1. A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B defective
  2. A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C defective
  3. Input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor defective
  4. Output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor defective
  5. ATF temperature sensor defective
  6. Foreign material in separator plate orifice
  • Check for a stored DTC, and check for loose connectors.
  • Inspect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B and C filter/gasket and the O-rings for wear and damage, and inspect the solenoid valves for seizure.
  • Check the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor and the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor installation.
  • Check for a clogged orifice in the separator plate. If the orifice is clogged, remove it and clean the separator plate orifice.
Excessive shock or flares on 1-2 upshift or 2-1 downshift
  1. Shift solenoid valve E defective
  2. A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A defective
  3. A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B defective
  4. A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C defective
  5. 2nd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch defective
  6. Foreign material in separator plate orifice
  7. 1st accumulator defective
  8. 2nd accumulator defective
  9. 1st check ball stuck
  10. 2nd check ball stuck
  11. Lock-up shift valve defective
  12. 1st clutch defective
  13. 2nd clutch defective
  • Check for a stored DTC, and check for loose connectors.
  • Inspect shift solenoid valve E for seizure, and the O-rings for wear and damage.
  • Inspect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves A, B, and C filter/gasket and the O-rings for wear and damage, and inspect the solenoid valves for seizure.
  • Check the 1st and the 2nd clutch pressures.
  • Check for a clogged orifice in the separator plate. If the orifice is clogged, remove it and clean the separator plate orifice.
  • Inspect the clutch piston, the clutch piston check valve, and the O-rings. Check the spring retainer and the retainer seal for wear, damage, and peeling. Inspect the clearance between the clutch end-plate and the top disc. If the clearance is out of tolerance, inspect the clutch discs and the plates for wear and damage. If the discs are worn or damaged, replace them as a set. Inspect the clutch wave-plate height. If the height is out of tolerance, replace the wave-plate. If the discs and the plates are OK, adjust the clearance with the clutch end-plate.
  • Check the lock-up shift valve in the regulator valve body for free movement, and check the lock-up shift valve spring for wear and damage.
  • Inspect the 1st clutch feed pipe. If the 1st clutch feed pipe is scored, replace the end cover.
  • Replace the secondary shaft if the bushing for the 1st clutch feed pipe is loose or damaged.
  • Check the 1st accumulator piston, the O-ring and the springs in the regulator valve body for wear and damage.
  • Check the 2nd accumulator piston, the O-ring and the springs in the servo valve body for wear and damage.
Excessive shock or flares on 2-3 upshift or 3-2 downshift
  1. A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B defective
  2. A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C defective
  3. 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch defective
  4. Foreign material in separator plate orifice
  5. 2nd accumulator defective
  6. 3rd accumulator defective
  7. 2nd check ball stuck
  8. 2nd clutch defective
  9. 3rd clutch defective
  • Check for a stored DTC, and check for loose connectors.
  • Inspect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C filter/gasket and the O-rings for wear and damage, and inspect the solenoid valves for seizure.
  • Check the 2nd and the 3rd clutch pressures.
  • Check for a clogged orifice in the separator plate. If the orifice is clogged, remove it and clean the separator plate orifice.
  • Inspect the clutch piston, the clutch piston check valve, and the O-rings. Check the spring retainer and the retainer seal for wear, damage, and peeling. Inspect the clearance between the clutch end-plate and the top disc. If the clearance is out of tolerance, inspect the clutch discs and the plates for wear and damage. If the discs are worn or damaged, replace them as a set. Inspect the clutch wave-plate height. If the height is out of tolerance, replace the wave-plate. If the discs and the plates are OK, adjust the clearance with the clutch end-plate.
  • Inspect the 3rd clutch feed pipe. If the 3rd clutch feed pipe is scored, replace it and the O-ring under the feed pipe guide.
  • Replace the secondary shaft if the bushing for the 3rd clutch feed pipe is loose or damaged.
  • Check the 2nd accumulator piston, the O-ring and the springs in the servo valve body for wear and damage.
  • Check the 3rd accumulator piston, the O-ring and the springs in the regulator valve body for wear and damage.
Excessive shock or flares on 3-4 upshift or 4-3 downshift
  1. A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B defective
  2. A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C defective
  3. Foreign material in separator plate orifice
  4. 3rd accumulator defective
  5. 4th accumulator defective
  6. 3rd clutch defective
  7. 4th clutch defective
  • Check for a stored DTC, and check for loose connectors.
  • Inspect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C filter/gasket and the O-rings for wear and damage, and inspect the solenoid valves for seizure.
  • Check for a clogged orifice in the separator plate. If the orifice is clogged, remove it and clean the separator plate orifice.
  • Check the 3rd and the 4th clutch pressures.
  • Inspect the clutch piston, the clutch piston check valve, and the O-rings. Check the spring retainer and the retainer seal (for 3rd clutch only) for wear, damage, and peeling. Inspect the clearance between the clutch end-plate and the top disc. If the clearance is out of tolerance, inspect the clutch discs and the plates for wear and damage. If the discs are worn or damaged, replace them as a set. Inspect the clutch wave-plate height. If the height is out of tolerance, replace the wave-plate. If the discs and the plates are OK, adjust the clearance with the clutch end-plate.
  • Inspect the 3rd clutch feed pipe. If the 3rd clutch feed pipe is scored, replace it and the O-ring under the feed pipe guide.
  • Replace the secondary shaft if the bushing for the 3rd clutch feed pipe is loose or damaged.
  • Check the 3rd accumulator piston, the O-ring and the springs in the regulator valve body for wear and damage.
  • Check the 4th accumulator piston, the O-ring, and the springs in the servo valve body for wear and damage.
Excessive shock or flares on 4-5 upshift or 5-4 downshift
  1. A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B defective
  2. A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C defective
  3. Foreign material in separator plate orifice
  4. 4th accumulator defective
  5. 5th accumulator defective
  6. 4th clutch defective
  7. 5th clutch defective
  • Check for a stored DTC, and check for loose connectors.
  • Inspect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C filter/gasket and the O-rings for wear and damage, and inspect the solenoid valves for seizure.
  • Check for a clogged orifice in the separator plate. If the orifice is clogged, remove it and clean the separator plate orifice.
  • Check the 4th and the 5th clutch pressures.
  • Inspect the clutch piston, the clutch piston check valve, and the O-rings. Check the spring retainer for wear and damage. Inspect the clearance between the clutch end-plate and the top disc. If the clearance is out of tolerance, inspect the clutch discs and the plates for wear and damage. If the discs are worn or damaged, replace them as a set. Inspect the clutch wave-plate height. If the height is out of tolerance, replace the wave-plate. If the discs and the plates are OK, adjust the clearance with the clutch end-plate.
  • Inspect the 5th clutch feed pipe. If the 5th clutch feed pipe is scored, replace it and the O-ring under the feed pipe guide.
  • Replace the mainshaft if the bushing for the 5th clutch feed pipe is loose or damaged.
  • Check the 4th and 5th accumulator pistons, the O-rings, and the springs in the servo valve body for wear and damage.
Noise from transmission in all shift lever positions
  1. ATF pump worn or binding
  2. Mainshaft bearing, countershaft bearing, or secondary shaft bearing defective
  • Improper alignment of ATF pump and torque converter housing may cause ATF pump seizure. The symptoms are mostly an rpm-related ticking noise or a high pitched squeak.
  • Be careful not to damage the torque converter housing when replacing the main ball bearing. You may also damage the ATF pump when you torque down the main valve body. This will result in ATF pump seizure if not detected. Use the proper tools.
  • Install the main seal flush with the torque converter housing. If you push it into the torque converter housing until it bottoms out, it will block the fluid return passage and result in damage.
  • Inspect the ATF strainer for clogging with particles of steel or aluminum. If the ATF strainer is clogged, replace it, and clean the torque converter, cooler, and lines.
  • Inspect the mainshaft, the countershaft, and the secondary shaft for wear or damage.
Vehicle does not accelerate above 31 mph (50 km/h) Torque converter one-way clutch defective Replace the torque converter.
Vibration in all shift lever positions Drive plate defective or transmission misassembled
  • Check for a misinstalled/damaged drive plate.
  • Check that the idle rpm in gear is the specified idle speed (see IDLE SPEED INSPECTION ). If the idle speed is correct, adjust the engine and the transmission mounts.
Shift lever does not operate smoothly
  1. Transmission range switch defective or out of adjustment
  2. Shift cable broken or out of adjustment
  3. Connection between the shift cable and transmission or body is worn
  • Check for a stored DTC, and check for loose connectors.
  • Inspect the transmission range switch for operation.
  • Check for a loose shift cable at the shift lever and the selector control shaft.
Transmission does not shift into P
  1. Shift cable broken or out of adjustment
  2. Connection between the shift cable and transmission or body is worn
  3. Park mechanism defective
  • Check for a loose shift cable at the shift lever and the selector control shaft.
  • Check the park pawl spring installation and the park lever spring installation. If installation is incorrect, install the spring correctly. Make sure that the park lever stop is not installed upside down. Check the distance between the park pawl shaft and the park lever roller pin. If the distance is out of tolerance, select and install the appropriate park lever stop.
Torque converter clutch does not disengage
  1. Shift solenoid valve E defective
  2. A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A defective
  3. Torque converter clutch piston defective
  4. Lock-up shift valve defective
  5. Lock-up control valve defective
  • Check for a stored DTC, and check for loose connectors.
  • Inspect shift solenoid valve E for seizure, and the O-rings for wear and damage.
  • Inspect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A filter/gasket and the O-rings for wear and damage, and inspect the solenoid valves for seizure.
  • Replace the torque converter.
  • Check the lock-up control valve in the main valve body for free movement, and check the lock-up control valve spring for wear and damage.
  • Check the lock-up shift valve in the regulator valve body for free movement, and check the lock-up shift valve spring for wear and damage.
Torque converter clutch does not operate smoothly
  1. Shift solenoid valve E defective
  2. A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A defective
  3. Torque converter clutch piston defective
  4. Torque converter check valve defective
  5. Lock-up shift valve defective
  6. Lock-up control valve defective
  • Check for a stored DTC, and check for loose connectors.
  • Inspect shift solenoid valve E for seizure, and the O-rings for wear and damage.
  • Inspect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A filter/gasket and the O-rings for wear and damage, and inspect the solenoid valves for seizure.
  • Replace the torque converter.
  • Check the lock-up control valve in the main valve body for free movement, and check the lock-up control valve spring for wear and damage.
  • Check the lock-up shift valve in the regulator valve body for free movement, and check the lock-up shift valve spring for wear and damage.
Torque converter clutch does not engage
  1. Shift solenoid valve E defective
  2. A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A defective
  3. Input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor defective
  4. Output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor defective
  5. Torque converter clutch piston defective
  6. Torque converter check valve defective
  7. Lock-up shift valve defective
  8. Lock-up control valve defective
  • Check for a stored DTC, and check for loose connectors.
  • Inspect shift solenoid valve E for seizure, and the O-rings for wear and damage.
  • Inspect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A filter/gasket and the O-rings for wear and damage, and inspect the solenoid valves for seizure.
  • Replace the torque converter.
  • Check the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor and the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor installation.
  • Check the lock-up control valve in the main valve body for free movement, and check the lock-up control valve spring for wear and damage.
  • Check the lock-up shift valve in the regulator valve body for free movement, and check the lock-up shift valve spring for wear and damage.
A/T gear position indicator does not indicate shift lever positions
  1. Transmission range switch defective or out of adjustment
  2. Shift cable broken or out of adjustment
  3. Connection between the shift cable and transmission or body is worn
  • Check for a stored DTC, and check for loose connectors.
  • Inspect the transmission range switch operation.
  • Check for a loose shift cable at the shift lever and the selector control shaft.
Speedometer and odometer do not work Output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor defective
  • Check for a stored DTC, and check for loose connectors.
  • Inspect the transmission range switch operation.
  • Check the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor installation.
Engine does not rev to high rpm, and the transmission upshifts at low rpm (engine at normal operating temperature) VTEC rocker arm defective Check the engine VTEC rocker arms.
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