Power Window Master Switch Input Test
NOTE:
The power window control unit is built into the power window master switch, and it only controls the driver's window operations.
- Remove the power window master switch (A).
- Disconnect the 14P connector (B) from the master switch.
- Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
- If the terminals look OK, go to step 4.
- With the 14P connector still disconnected from the switch connector, make these input tests at the connector.
- If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
- If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 5.PROBLEM SYMPTOM TABLE
Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if desired result is not obtained 7 RED/YEL Connect the No. 11 and No. 7 terminals, and the No. 4 and No. 14 terminals. Check for driver's power window motor operation: It should run (the driver's window moves down). - Blown No. 23 (20A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
- Faulty driver's power window motor
- An open or high resistance in the wire.
4 RED/BLK 3 BLU/RED Connect the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals, and the No. 3 and No. 10 terminals, then turn the ignition switch ON (II). Check for front passenger's power window motor operation: It should run (the front passenger's window moves down). - Blown No. 22 (20A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
- Faulty power window relay
- Faulty front passenger's power window motor
- Faulty front passenger's power window switch
- An open or high resistance in the wire
1 BLU/WHT
- Reconnect the 14P connector to the switch, and perform the following input tests.
- If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
- If all the input tests prove OK, the control unit must be faulty; replace the power window master switch.PROBLEM SYMPTOM TABLE
Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if desired result is not obtained 10 BLK Under all conditions Measure voltage to ground: There should be less than 0.5 V. - Poor ground (G501)
- An open in the wire
14 2 GRN/BLK Ignition switch ON (II) Measure voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. - Blown No. 6 (7.5 A), No. 22 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
- Faulty power window relay
- Poor ground (G301)
- An open in the wire
11 GRN/WHT Under all conditions Measure voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. - Blown No. 23 (20 A) fuse under-dash fuse/relay box
- An open in the wire
12 YEL/GRN Ignition switch ON (II) Measure voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. - Blown No. 6 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
- An open in the wire
5 RED/WHT Ignition switch ON (II) Measure voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. - Faulty power window master switch
- Short to ground in the wire
6 LT GRN Under all conditions Measure voltage to ground: There should be less than 0.5 V. An open in the wire 13 BLU Ignition switch ON (II), and the driver's window switch in AUTO DOWN Measure voltage between the No. 13 and No. 14 terminals: There should be 0 V - about 5 V - 0 V - about 5 V repeatedly (a digital voltmeter reads about 2.5 V while the window moves). - Faulty power window master switch
- Short to ground in the wire
- Faulty driver's power window motor
8 ORN Ignition switch ON (II), and the driver's window switch in AUTO DOWN Measure voltage between the No. 8 and No. 14 terminals: There should be 0 V-about 5 V - 0 V-about 5 V repeatedly (a digital voltmeter reads about 2.5 V while the window moves). NOTE: Do the power window control unit reset procedure (see RESETTING THE POWER WINDOW CONTROL UNIT ).