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Power Window Master Switch Input Test

NOTE: Make sure the ignition switch is to LOCK (0) before disconnecting the connectors.
  1. Before testing the power windows, troubleshoot the multiplex integrated control system using B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode A (see TROUBLESHOOTING - B-CAN SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS TEST MODE A ).
  2. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
  3. Remove the power window master switch (see PASSENGER'S POWER WINDOW MOTOR TEST ).
  4. Disconnect the 23P connector (A) from the power window master switch (B).
    Fig 1: Identifying Power Window Master Switch 23P Connector Terminals
    G05968785Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
  5. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
    • If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
    • If the terminals look OK, Go to step 6.
  6. With the connector still disconnected, do the following input tests:
    • If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
    • If all the input tests prove OK, Go to step 7.
      WIRE TEST CONDITION REFERENCE CHART

      Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if desired result is not obtained
      1
      .
      2      		 BLK In all ignition switch positions Measure the voltage to ground:
      There should be less than 0.2 V.
      • Poor ground (G401, G501)
      • Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box
      • An open or high resistance in the ground wire
      10 GRN/WHT Under all conditions Measure the voltage to ground:
      There should be battery voltage.
      • Blown No. 28 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
      • Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box
      • An open or high resistance in the wire
      15 WHT/RED Under all conditions Measure the voltage to ground:
      There should be battery voltage.
      • Blown No. 7 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
      • Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box
      • An open or high resistance in the wire
      20 YEL Ignition switch ON (II) Measure the voltage to ground:
      There should be battery voltage.
      • Blown No. 21 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
      • Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box
      • An open or high resistance in the wire
  7. Reconnect the connector to the power window master switch, turn the ignition switch to ON (II) and do these input tests at the following connector.
    • If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
    • If all the input tests prove OK, the control unit must be faulty; replace the power window master switch (see Power Window Master Switch Replacement ), and Go to step 8.
      WIRE TEST CONDITION REFERENCE CHART

      Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if desired result is not obtained
      6 RED/WHT Ignition switch ON (II) Measure the voltage to ground:
      There should be battery voltage.
      • Faulty power window master switch
      • A short to ground in the wire
      4 BLU Ignition switch ON (II), and the driver's power window switch moving up or down Measure the voltage between terminals No. 4 and No. 1:
      An analog voltmeter should alternate between 0 V and about 5 V (a digital voltmeter reads about 2.5 V while the window moves).
      • Blown No. 7 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
      • Blown No. 28 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
      • An open or high resistance in the wire (RED/WHT, BLU, ORN)
      • A short to ground in the wire
      • Faulty driver's power window motor
      • Faulty power window master switch
      17 ORN Ignition switch ON (II), and the driver's power window switch moving up or down Measure the voltage between terminals No. 17 and No. 1:
      An analog voltmeter should alternate between 0 V and about 5 V (a digital voltmeter reads about 2.5 V while the window moves).
      11 RED/YEL Ignition switch ON (II), connect terminals No. 10 and No. 11 with a jumper wire, and connect terminal No. 23 to body ground. Check for driver's window operation:
      The window should go down.
      • Blown No. 28 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
      • Faulty driver's power window motor
      • An open or high resistance in the wire
      23 RED/BLK Ignition switch ON (II), connect terminals No. 10 and No. 23 with a jumper wire, and connect terminal No. 11 to body ground. Check for driver's window operation:
      The window should go up.
      18 BLU/RED Ignition switch ON (II), connect terminals No. 10 and No. 18 with a jumper wire. Check for front passenger's window operation:
      The window should go up.
      • Blown No. 26 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
      • Faulty front passenger's power window motor
      • Faulty front passenger's power window switch
      • Poor ground (G402) or an open in the ground wire
      • An open or high resistance in the wire
      9 BLU/WHT Ignition switch ON (II), connect terminals No. 10 and No. 9 with a jumper wire. Check for front passenger's window operation:
      The window should go down.
      13 BRN/WHT Ignition switch ON (II), connect terminals No. 10 and No. 13 with a jumper wire. Check for left rear window operation:
      The window should go up.
      • Blown No. 24 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
      • Faulty left rear power window motor
      • Faulty left rear power window switch
      • Poor ground (G501) or an open in the ground wire
      • An open or high resistance in the wire
      19 BRN Ignition switch ON (II), connect terminals No. 10 and No. 19 with a jumper wire. Check for left rear window operation:
      The window should go down.
      12 BLU/ORN Ignition switch ON (II), connect terminals No. 10 and No. 12 with a jumper wire. Check for right rear window operation:
      The window should go up.
      • Blown No. 25 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
      • Faulty right rear power window motor
      • Faulty right rear power window switch
      • Poor ground (G501)or an open in the ground wire
      • An open or high resistance in the wire
      14 BRN/YEL Ignition switch ON (II), connect terminals No. 10 and No. 14 with a jumper wire. Check for right rear window operation:
      The window should go down.
      3 WHT/GRN Ignition switch ON (II) Measure the voltage to ground:
      There should be less than 0.2 V.
      • Blown No. 23 (P/W) (50 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box
      • Faulty power window relay
      • Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box
      • An open or high resistance in the wire
      8 WHT/RED Driver's door key cylinder switch in LOCK Measure the voltage to ground:
      There should be less than 0.2 V.
      • Faulty driver's door key cylinder switch
      • Poor ground (G401) or an open in the ground wire
      • An open or high resistance in the wire
      Driver's door key cylinder switch in neutral Measure the voltage to ground:
      There should be more than 5 V.
      • A short to ground in the wire
      • Faulty driver's door key cylinder switch
      Driver's door key cylinder switch in UNLOCK Measure the voltage to ground:
      There should be at least 5 V.
      21 WHT Driver's door key cylinder switch in UNLOCK Measure the voltage to ground:
      There should be less than 0.2 V.
      • Faulty driver's door key cylinder switch
      • Poor ground (G401) or an open in the ground wire
      • An open or high resistance in the wire
      Driver's door key cylinder switch in neutral Measure the voltage to ground:
      There should be at least 5 V.
      • A short to ground in the wire
      • Faulty driver's door key cylinder switch
      Driver's door key cylinder switch in LOCK Measure the voltage to ground:
      There should be more than 5 V.
      16 BRN/BLK Under all conditions Check for continuity between terminal No. 16 and under-dash fuse/relay box connector J terminal No. 4:
      There should be continuity.      		 An open or high resistance in the wire
  8. Reset the power window control unit (see RESETTING THE POWER WINDOW CONTROL UNIT ).
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