Power Window Master Switch Input Test
NOTE:
Before testing, troubleshoot the multiplex integrated control unit first, using B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode A (see
TROUBLESHOOTING - B-CAN SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS TEST MODE A
).
- Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and remove the power window master switch (see POWER WINDOW MASTER SWITCH REPLACEMENT ).
- Disconnect the 37P connector (A) from the power window master switch (B).
- Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose, or corroded, repair them as necessary and recheck the system.
- If the terminals look OK, go to step 4.
- With the door multiplex control unit 37P connector still disconnected from the power window master switch, do the following input tests.
- If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
- If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 5.
Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if desired result is not obtained 27 BRN Disconnect the front passenger's power window switch 37P connector Check for continuity between terminal No. 27 and front passenger's power window switch 37P connector terminal No. 29: There should be continuity. An open in the UART wire 12 RED Connect terminals No. 25 and No. 24 (or No. 12), and terminal No. 12 (or No. 24) and body ground with jumper wires. Check driver's power window motor operation: The driver's power window should open (or close). - Faulty driver's power window motor
- Blown No. 26 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
- An open or high resistance in the wire
24 GRN 23 BLU - Connect terminals No. 25 and No. 36 (or No. 23) with a jumper wire.
- Connect No. 13 terminal and the left rear power window switch 14P connector terminal No. 8.
Check left rear power window motor operation: The left rear power window should open (or close). - Poor ground (G503) or an open in the ground wire
- Faulty left rear power window switch
- Faulty left rear power window motor
- An open or high resistance in the wire
36 GRY 21 GRY - Connect terminals No. 25 and No. 34 (or No. 21) with a jumper wire.
- Connect No. 13 terminal and the right rear power window switch 14P connector terminal No. 8.
Check right rear power window motor operation: The right rear power window should open (or close). - Poor ground (G502) or an open in the ground wire
- Faulty right rear power window switch
- Faulty right rear power window motor
- An open or high resistance in the wire
34 GRN 26 LT BLU Connect terminals No. 25 and No. 26 with a jumper wire. Check left and right rear power window switch lights: The left and right rear power window switch lights should come on. - Faulty LED
- Poor ground (G502, G503) or an open in the ground wire
- Faulty left and right rear power window switch
- An open or high resistance in the wire
32 BLK Under all conditions, disconnect the driver's power window motor 6P connector. Check for continuity between power window master switch 37P connector terminal No. 32 and front driver's power window motor 6P connector terminal No. 2: There should be continuity. An open or high resistance in the ground wire - Reconnect the connector to the door multiplex control unit, turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and do the following input tests.
- If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
- If all the input tests prove OK, the door multiplex control unit is faulty; replace the power window master switch (see POWER WINDOW MASTER SWITCH REPLACEMENT ).
NOTE: If you replace the power window master switch, reset the power window control unit (see RESETTING THE POWER WINDOW CONTROL UNIT ).Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if desired result is not obtained 32 BLK Under ail conditions Measure the voltage to ground: There should be less than 0.2 V. - Poor ground (G401)
- An open or high resistance in the ground wire
37 13 WHT Under all conditions Measure the voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. - Blown No. 23 (10 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box
- Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box
- A short to ground in the wire
- An open or high resistance in the wire
14 YEL Ignition switch ON (II) Measure the voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. - Blown No. 36 (10 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
- Faulty IG2 cut relay
- Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box
- A short to ground in the wire
- An open or high resistance in the wire
25 WHT Under all conditions Measure the voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. - Blown No. 26 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
- Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box
- A short to ground in the wire
- An open or high resistance in the wire
3 RED Ignition switch ON (II) Measure the voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. - Faulty door multiplex control unit
- A short to ground in the wire
20 BRN Ignition switch ON (II), and driver's power window moving up or down Measure the voltage between terminals No. 20 and No. 37: An analog meter should alternate between 0 V and about 5 V (a digital voltmeter should read about 2.5 V while the window moves). - Faulty door multiplex control unit
- Poor ground (G401) or an open in the ground wire
- Faulty driver's power window motor
- An open or high resistance in the wire
- A short to ground in the wire
22 LT BLU Ignition switch ON (II), and driver's power window moving up or down Measure the voltage between terminals No. 22 and No. 37: An analog meter should alternate between 0 V and about 5 V (a digital voltmeter should read about 2.5 V while the window moves). - Faulty door multiplex control unit
- Poor ground (G401) or an open in the ground wire
- Faulty driver's power window motor
- An open or high resistance in the wire
- A short to ground in the wire