Tech Tips SUBARU Service And Technical Support Line Newsletter March 2014 (TIPS 0314)

TECH TIPS SUBARU SERVICE AND TECHNICAL SUPPORT LINE NEWSLETTER MARCH 2014

TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN

05 WHEEL LUG SOCKET RECOMMENDATION

Technicians should regularly inspect the sockets used for removal of chrome plated lug nuts for any excessive wear and to always ensure a proper fit. Otherwise, damage to the chrome finish, especially on the corners of the lug and/or the alloy wheel finish itself may occur. This damage may result in fracturing and flaking of the chrome plating/coating, corrosion of the lug and possibly the wheel itself. Use of the correct sized sockets as well as regular inspection and replacement of worn lug nut sockets will greatly reduce the chances of this kind of damage occurring.

14 GR8 BATTERY TESTING INFORMATION

GR8 Test Options: Which One to Use? 

You may have noticed there are two different options for testing on the Midtronics GR8-1100 EST Battery Diagnostic Station. This article will outline the differences between the two.

Diagnostic Charge 

This test must be used for diagnosing batteries, in particular, those with possible warranty coverage. In this test, the GR8 will partially charge the battery to determine its charge acceptance. It will also apply a 150 ampere load to determine battery performance under a full load. This test is located in the main menu, under "Charging". The resulting diagnostic code is the only code acceptable for submission as part of a warranty claim, should the battery require replacement.

System Test 

This test is used for diagnosing the alternator or the starter, but not the battery. In this test sequence, the only check done to the battery is to verify it has enough power to successfully start the engine once. The charge acceptance and full load tests from Diagnostic Charge are not performed. This test can be located in the main menu, under "System Test". This test must not be used when determining possible warranty replacement of a battery.

Because it does not include a comprehensive battery test, "System Test" cannot be used as the only method to verify battery health. A result of Good Battery in "System Test" means the battery is only good enough to start the engine once. It may not actually be a good battery!

02 FA & FB ENGINE TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER INITIAL SETTING INFORMATION

The Techline continues to receive calls regarding a cold engine tapping sound heard on initial start-up. In some cases, it is heard after engine repairs involving timing chain R&R are involved. In 2011, we released TSB# 02-113-11R on this subject. When reassembling the engine's timing chain components and performing the initial setting for of the chain tensioners, it is important to get that "extra click" out of BOTH tensioners as described below to minimize the chances of the cold engine sound reoccurring.

• Use a small mechanic's mirror to help view the adjustment notches as they face the engine block and are difficult to see.

For example:  If after timing component reassembly, you have 3 notches showing on the plunger, push down firmly on the upper chain guide to get the extra click so you end up having 4 notches showing. If you have 4 notches showing, you want to get the extra click to end up with 5. Whether you start with 3 notches or 4 showing depends on the amount of wear there is on the guides and timing chain.

02 PISTON RING INSTALLATION TIPS

The Techline has received a limited number of reports with concerns of unusual oil consumption even after piston ring replacement. Most times, this condition is a result of incorrect piston ring installation resulting in either oil control rings being damaged or the piston ring end gaps becoming lined up. To build upon the piston ring replacement procedures included in the three recent surface treatment change to oil control/piston ring TSBs, the following tips are provided below.

All three bulletins (02-143-13R, 02-144-13R and 02-145-13R ) recommend the use of the factory tapered or non-adjustable - type piston ring compressor, J-50553 for 2.5L FB engines and J-50984 for 2.0L FA engines as illustrated below.

This type of piston ring compressor takes the guesswork out of whether the rings are compressed sufficiently to enter the cylinder. This can be difficult to determine when using an adjustable band - type compressor resulting in a grip that may be too tight or too loose on the piston assembly. It also provides the best "seal" to the block deck surface when installing the piston assembly into the bore and minimizes the chance of oil scraper rings popping out from between the ring compressor and the block deck surface. It is important to always hold the compressor firmly on the block surface as shown in the above, right photo. Use one firm, direct motion for the actual piston assembly insertion. If an oil scraper ring is displaced during engine assembly, severe piston and cylinder wall damage will result. At that point, the need for a short block replacement is virtually guaranteed. The photos below illustrate damage that occurred when an improperly installed oil control ring went undetected during engine reassembly. Always turn the engine over after each piston assembly is installed and develop a "feel" for how much turning effort is required. If it doesn't "feel" right and seems to take more effort than normal, a loose/bent over scraper ring might just be the cause. In addition, check for any unusual vertical markings on the cylinder walls after rotating the crankshaft by hand. The photo at the top of page five (5), on the left, shows an upper oil scraper ring bent over and on the right, the resultant damage to the cylinder wall after the engine was taken apart again because of persistent, unusual oil consumption.

As a reminder, always lubricate the rings, cylinder walls and the ring compressor liberally with engine oil then give a final check of the ring end gap positions before installation into the ring compressor and cylinder bore.

07 DTC P0724, BRAKE SWITCH CIRCUIT HIGH INPUT

If you receive a transmission-related DTC P0724 (CVT or 5AT) for "Brake Switch Circuit High Input", before performing unnecessary diagnostics, wiring checks and worst case, component replacement, make sure ALL the brake light bulbs are functioning normally. If any of the bulbs are out, the TCM may misinterpret the lack of a voltage drop normally seen when all the brake light bulbs are working and as a result, set the high input DTC. After replacing any failed brake light bulbs, clear the memory then verify the brake switch signal data is normal using the SSMIII. Should the DTC persist, proceed with the diagnostics according to the applicable Service Manual.

07 2010-14 LEGACY & OUTBACK FUSE #16 FAILED IN THE MAIN FUSE BOX (M/B)

If you encounter a vehicle with electrical concerns and find fuse #16 in the under-hood fuse box (M/B) failed, inspect the engine wiring harness in the area of the power steering pump mounting bolt closest to the pressure switch for chafing or rub-through. The photos below show the area to inspect and damage to the harness which resulted in a short to ground and the root cause for the open fuse #16. This information applies to both H4 and H6 models.

07 2010-14MY OUTBACK REAR BUMPER UNDERGUARD ACCESSORY REMINDER

As per the Outback accessory brochure, when accessorizing a 2010-2014MY Outback, the Rear Bumper Underguard accessory, E551SAJ200 is not compatible with the L101SAJ001 Trailer Hitch accessory as shown below.

10 2013-14 LEGACY AND OUTBACK CENTER CONSOLE REAR AIR VENT FUNCTION

With the unusually cold winter this year, Techline has received a number of calls regarding the temperature and volume of air supplied by the center console rear vents. These vents were introduced in the 2013 MY Legacy and Outback equipped with Automatic Climate Control and continue in the current 2014 model year. The design intent of these vents is to better stabilize the temperatures within the entire passenger cabin by enhancing air circulation throughout the interior space. As such, the temperature and volume of the air they supply will be different from the other vents in the vehicle. Some customers may comment about noticing variations in both air volume and/or air temperature coming from these vents. These variations are as-designed since again, the ducts are provided to enhance and balance the climate conditions inside the vehicle cabin. In some cases, accomplishing this balance involves blending the air by introducing air of varied temperatures to stabilize the overall conditions in the passenger cabin. Should customers express a concern with the temperature of the air coming from these ducts at any time, the first advice would be to check the temperature setting for the right (passenger side) on the climate control head unit. The right side setting has the most influence over the temperature of air supplied by the rear console vents. If adjusting the temperature for the right side does not create a sufficient improvement, the next advice would be to simply close the vent shutters to eliminate the source of the objectionable air. The under-seat ducts will continue to provide warm air as commanded by the settings on the automatic climate control head unit.