Recirculation Control Motor Test

WARNING: This page is about a different car, the 2011 Acura TL, 2010 Acura TL, and 2009 Acura TL. However, it is still accessible from the selected car via links, so may be relevant.

NOTE: Before testing the motor, check for HVAC DTCs (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION )

Disconnect the 7P connector from the recirculation control motor
NOTE: Incorrectly applying power and ground to the recirculation control motor will damage it Follow the instructions carefully
Connect battery power to terminal No 1 of the recirculation control motor, and ground terminal No 2, the recirculation control motor should run smoothly, and stop at Recirculate If it doesn't, reverse the connections, the recirculation control motor should run smoothly, and stop at Fresh When the recirculation control motor stops running, disconnect battery power immediately.

Fig 1: Identifying Recirculation Control Motor Connector Terminals
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
If the recirculation control motor did not run in step 2, remove it, then check the recirculation control linkage and door for smooth movement.
- If the linkage and door move smoothly, replace the recirculation control motor (see RECIRCULATION CONTROL MOTOR REPLACEMENT ).
- If the linkage or door stick or bind, repair them as needed
- If the recirculation control motor runs smoothly, go to step 4
Use a digital multimeter with an output of 1 mA or less at the 20 kΩ range Operate the recirculation control motor running as in step 2, and check for continuity between terminals No 3,4, and 5 and terminal No 7 individually There should be continuity for a moment at each terminal as the motor through its travel
If there is no continuity for a moment at each terminal, replace the recirculation control motor (see RECIRCULATION CONTROL MOTOR REPLACEMENT )