Engine Control Module: Removing
-- If the engine control module is replaced, in "Guided Fault Finding " select "Replace Engine Control Module " to vehicle diagnostic tester.
-- Turn ignition off and remove the ignition key.
-- Remove nut -3- and bolt -2-.
-- Remove filler neck -1- with filler tube from the washer fluid reservoir and opening in the body -arrow-.
-- Remove bolts -arrows- and the cover from the E-box.
-- Release retainers -A arrows- and remove ECM -J623- -arrow B-.
To increase the difficulty with which the ECM connectors can be accessed, the ECM -1- is secured in a metal housing -5- with retaining tabs -2- and shear bolts -3 and 4-.
The threads of the shear bolts -4- (that are not screwed into the ECM) are coated with a locking compound. For this reason, the threads must be heated with the heat gun to remove both bolts.
The threads of both shear bolts -3-, that are screwed into the ECM, are not coated with a locking compound. The threads in the ECM housing must not be heated and do not require to be heated (unintentional heating of the ECM).
-- Set the adjustment on the heat gun as shown in the illustration, with the temperature potentiometer -2- set to maximum heat and the two-stage air flow switch -3- set to level 3.
By heating the threads, the retaining tabs, shear bolts and parts of the metal housing become very hot. Do not burn yourself on this! Make sure that only the threads are heated as much as possible, and not any of the surrounding parts. Possibly cover these parts.
-- Warm threads on connector-side shear bolts for approximately 25 to 30 seconds.
-- Remove shear bolts with locking pliers (see direction of -arrow-).
-- Both shear bolts that are screwed into the ECM do not require heating to be removed. They can be removed without heat.
-- Disconnect metal retainers from the ECM connectors.
-- Disengage connectors from ECM and then disconnect the connectors.
-- Remove old ECM -- and install the ECM --.