Door Multiplex Control Unit Input Test
WARNING: This page is about a different car, the 2006 Honda Odyssey and 2005 Honda Odyssey. However, it is still accessible from the selected car via links, so may be relevant.
NOTE:
Make sure the ignition switch is OFF before disconnecting the driver's door switch panel.
- Remove the driver's door switch panel (see MASTER SWITCH REPLACEMENT ).
- Disconnect the 23P connector from the power window master switch.
- Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
- If the terminals look OK, go to step 4.
- Reconnect the connector to the door multiplex control unit and make these input tests at the connector.
- If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
- If all the input tests prove OK, the door multiplex control unit must be faulty, replace the power window master switch.
POSSIBLE CAUSECavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if result is not obtained 15 WHT/RED Under all conditions Check for voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. - Blown No. 7 (7.5 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box
- An open in the wire
20 YEL Ignition switch ON (II) Check for voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. - Blown No. 21 (7.5 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box
- An open in the wire
1 BLK Under all conditions Check for voltage to ground: There should be less than 1 V. - Poor ground (G601)
- An open in the wire
16 GRN/RED Under all conditions Check for continuity between No. 16 terminal and the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box connector J (21P) No. 4 terminal:
There should be continuity.An open in the wire