Master Switch Input Test

NOTE: The power window control unit is built into the power window master switch, and it only controls the driver's window operations.

Remove the driver's door panel (see FRONT DOOR PANEL REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ).
Remove the power window master switch (A).
Disconnect the 14P connector (B) from the master switch.

Fig 1: Removing Power Window Master Switch
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
- If the terminals look OK, go to step 5.

With the 14P connector still disconnected from the switch connector, make these input tests at the connector.

If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 6.

CAVITY TEST CONDITION CHART DISCONNECTED

Cavity	Wire	Test condition	Test: Desired result	Possible cause if result is not obtained
7	RED/YEL	Connect the No. 11 and No. 7 terminals, and the No. 4 and No. 14 terminals.	Check for driver's window motor operation: It should run (the driver's window moves down).	Faulty driver's window motor An open in the wire
4	RED/BLK			Faulty driver's window motor An open in the wire
3	BLU/RED	Connect the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals, and the No. 3 and No. 10 terminals, then turn the ignition switch ON (II).	Check for front passenger's window motor operation: It should run (the front passenger's window moves down).	Faulty front passenger's window motor Faulty front passenger's window switch An open in the wire
1	BLU/WHT

Reconnect the 14P connector to the switch, and perform the following input tests.

If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
If all the input tests prove OK, the control unit must be faulty; replace the power window master switch.

CAVITY TEST CONDITION CHART RECONNECTED

Cavity	Wire	Test condition	Test: Desired result	Possible cause if result is not obtained
10	BLK	Under all conditions	Check for voltage to ground: There should be less than 1 V.	Poor ground (G501) An open in the wire
14	BLK	Under all conditions	Check for voltage to ground: There should be less than 1 V.	Poor ground (G501) An open in the wire
2	GRN/BLK	Ignition switch ON (II)	Check for voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage.	Blown No. 6 (7.5 A), No. 22 (20 A), or No. 23 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box Faulty power window relay Poor ground (G301) An open in the wire
11	GRN/WHT	Under all conditions
12	YEL/GRN	ignition switch ON (II)	Check for voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage.	Blown No. 6 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box An open in the wire
5	RED/WHT	Ignition switch ON (II)	Check for voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage.	Faulty power window master switch Short to ground in the wire
6	LT GRN	Under all conditions	Check for voltage to ground: There should be less than 1 V.	An open in the wire
13	BLU	Ignition switch ON (II), and the driver's window switch in AUTO DOWN	Check for voltage between the No. 13 and No. 14 terminals: There should be 0 V---about 5 V---0 V---about 5 V repeatedly (a digital voltmeter reads about 2.5 V while the window moves).	Faulty power window master switch Short to ground in the wire Faulty driver's window motor
8	ORN	Ignition switch ON (II), and the driver's window switch in AUTO DOWN	Check for voltage between the No. 8 and No. 14 terminals: There should be 0 V---about 5 V---0 V---about 5 V repeatedly (a digital voltmeter reads about 2.5 V while the window moves).

NOTE: Do the power window control unit reset procedure (see RESETTING THE POWER WINDOW CONTROL UNIT ).