Control Circuit Input Test
WARNING: This page is about a different car, the 2008 Honda Pilot, 2007 Honda Pilot, and 2006 Honda Pilot. However, it is still accessible from the selected car via links, so may be relevant.
- Before testing the entry light control functions, troubleshoot the multiplex control system (see
TROUBLESHOOTING
).
Driver's Multiplex Control Unit
- Remove the driver's multiplex control unit from the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box.
- Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
- If the terminals look OK, go to step 4.
- With the driver's multiplex control unit still disconnected, make these input tests at the connector or driver's under-dash fuse/relay box socket.
- If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
- If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 5.REFERENCE CHART (DRIVER'S MULTIPLEX CONTROL UNIT DISCONNECTED)
Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if result is not obtained A1 Fuse/relay box socket Under all conditions Attach to ground:
The ignition key light should come on.- Blown No. 47 (20 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box
- Blown LED
- An open in the wire
A24 Ignition switch ON (II) Check for voltage to ground:
There should be battery voltage.- Blown No. 9 (10 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box
- Faulty driver's under-dash fuse/relay box
A6 Fuse/relay box socket Combination light switch ON Check for voltage to ground:
There should be battery voltage and jump 12V to driver's multiplex connector B16 (EX).- Blown No. 54 (40 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box
- Blown No. 10 (15 A) fuse in the passenger's under-dash fuse/relay box
- Faulty taillight relay
- Faulty combination light switch
- An open in the wire
- Reconnect the driver's multiplex control unit to the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box, and perform the following input tests at the appropriate connectors on the back of the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box. For driver's under-dash fuse/relay box connector socket location (see
DRIVER'S UNDER-DASH FUSE/RELAY BOX
).
- If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
- If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 6.REFERENCE CHART (DRIVER'S MULTIPLEX CONTROL UNIT CONNECTED)
Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if result is not obtained E3 GRN/ORN Driver's door open Check for voltage to ground: There should be less than 1 V. - Faulty driver's door switch
- An open in the wire
Driver's door closed Check for voltage to ground:
There should be 5 V or more.- A short to ground
- Faulty driver's door switch
- An open in the wire
M9 BLU/BLK Ignition key is in the ignition switch Check for voltage to ground:
There should be less than 1 V.- Poor ground (G401)
- Faulty ignition switch
- An open in the wire
Ignition key is out of the ignition switch Check for voltage to ground: There should be 5 V or more. - A short to ground
- Poor ground (G401)
- Faulty ignition switch
- An open in the wire
E10 LT GRN/BLK Left rear door open Check for voltage to ground:
There should be less than 1 V.- Faulty left rear door switch
- An open in the wire
Left rear door closed Check for voltage to ground: There should be 5 V or more. - A short to ground
- Faulty left rear door switch
- An open in the wire
B81 (1) ORN Tailgate open Check for voltage to ground:
There should be less than 1 V.- Poor ground (G652)
- Faulty tailgate latch switch
- An open in the wire
Tailgate closed Check for voltage to ground:
There should be 5 V or more.- Short to ground
- Poor ground (G652)
- Faulty tailgate latch switch
- An open in the wire
(1) Driver's multiplex control unit connector B Passenger's Multiplex Control Unit
- Remove the passenger's multiplex control unit from the passenger's under-dash fuse/relay box, and disconnect its connector.
- Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
- If the terminals look OK, go to step 8.
- With the passenger's multiplex control unit still disconnected, make these input tests at the connector and passenger's under-dash fuse/relay box socket.
- If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
- If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 9.REFERENCE CHART
Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if result is not obtained A22 Fuse/relay box socket Ignition switch ON (II) Check for voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. - Blown No. 9 (10 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box
- Faulty passenger's under-dash fuse/relay box
- An open in the wire
A21 Interior light switches in the middle (Door) position Attach to ground:
Interior lights should come on.- Blown No. 11 (10 A) fuse in the passenger's under-dash fuse/relay box
- Blown No. 54 (40 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box
- Faulty passenger's under-dash fuse/relay box
- Faulty individual map light
- Faulty interior lights switch
- An open in the wire
- Reconnect the passenger's multiplex control unit to the passenger's under-dash fuse/relay box, and perform the following input tests at the appropriate connector of the passenger's under-dash fuse/relay box.
- If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
- If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 10.REFERENCE CHART (PASSENGER'S MULTIPLEX CONTROL UNIT TO PASSENGER'S UNDER-DASH FUSE/RELAY BOX CONNECTED)
Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if result is not obtained C16 WHT/ORN Front passenger's door open Check for voltage to ground:
There should be less than 1 V.- Faulty front passenger's door switch
- An open in the wire
Front passenger's door closed Check for voltage to ground:
There should be 5 V or more.- Faulty front passenger's door switch
- A short to ground in the wire
C14 GRN/WHT Right rear door open Check for voltage to ground:
There should be less than 1 V.- Faulty right rear door switch
- An open in the wire
Right rear door closed Check for voltage to ground:
There should be 5 V or more.- Faulty right rear door switch
- A short to ground in the wire
Door Multiplex Control Unit
- Remove the driver's door panel and disconnect the 20P connector from the door multiplex control unit.
- Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
- If the terminals look OK, go to step 12.
- Reconnect the connector to the door multiplex control unit, and make the input test at the connector.
- If a test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
- If the input test proves OK, go to step 13.REFERENCE CHART (DOOR MULTIPLEX CONTROL UNIT CONNECTOR A)
Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if result is not obtained A17 BLK/RED Driver's door lock knob unlocked Check for voltage to ground: There should be less than 1 V. - Faulty driver's door lock actuator
- Poor ground (G401)
- An open in the wire
Driver's door lock knob locked Check for voltage to ground: There should be 5 V or more. - Faulty driver's door lock actuator
- Short to ground
- If all the input tests prove OK, one of the control units must be faulty. Substitute a known-good control unit for the one that is most likely at fault, then recheck the system. If the system works properly, the original control unit is faulty; replace it. If there is still a malfunction, substitute a known-good control unit for the next most likely unit to be at fault, and recheck. If the system works properly, the original unit is faulty; replace it.