Parasitic Draw Test
Typically, a drain of approximately one amp can be attributed to an engine compartment lamp, glove compartment lamp, or luggage compartment lamp staying on continually. Other component failures or wiring shorts may be located by selectively pulling fuses to pinpoint the location of the current drain. When the current drain is found, the meter reading will fall to an acceptable level. If the drain is still not located after checking all the fuses, it may be due to the generator.
To accurately test the drain on a battery, an in-line digital ammeter must be used. Use of a test lamp or voltmeter is not an accurate method due to the number of electronic modules.
Check for current drains on the battery in excess of 50 milliamps (0.050 amp) with all the electrical accessories off and the vehicle at rest. Current drains can be tested with the following procedure:
- Make sure the junction box/fuse panels are accessible without turning on interior and underhood lights.
- Drive the vehicle at least 5 minutes and over 30 mph to turn on and exercise vehicle systems.
- Allow the vehicle to sit with the key off for at least 40 minutes to allow modules to time out/power down.
- Connect a fused jumper wire between the negative battery cable and the negative battery post to prevent modules from resetting and to catch capacitive drains.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable from the post without breaking the connection of the jumper wire.
- Connect the tester between negative battery cable and the post. The meter must be capable of reading milliamps and should have a 10 amp capability.
- Remove the jumper wire.
- If the draw is found to be excessive, pull fuses from the battery/central junction box one at a time and note the current drop. Do not reinstall the fuses until you are finished testing.
- Check the wiring schematic in the wiring diagram for any circuits that run from the battery without passing through the battery/central junction box. Disconnect these circuits if the draw is still excessive.