Door Multiplex Control Unit Input Test
NOTE:
Make sure the ignition switch is OFF before disconnecting the driver's door switch panel.
- Remove the driver's door switch panel (see FRONT DOOR PANEL REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ).
- Disconnect the connectors from the power window master switch.
- Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
- If the terminals look OK, go to step 4.
- With the connectors still disconnected, make these input tests at the connectors.
- If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
- If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 5.WIRE TEST CONDITION CHART
Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if desired result is not obtained A5 BRN/BLK Under-dash fuse/relay box connector J (21P) disconnected Check for continuity between A5 terminal and the under-dash fuse/relay box connector J (21P) Non terminal: There should be continuity. An open in the wire
- Reconnect the connectors and, make these input test at the connectors.
- If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
- If all the input tests prove OK, the door multiplex control unit must be faulty. Replace the power window master switch.WIRE TEST CONDITION CHART
Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if desired result is not obtained B3 WHT/RED Under all conditions Measure the voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. - Blown No. 7 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
- A short to ground in the wire
- An open in the wire
B11 GRN/WHT Under all conditions Measure the voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. - Blown No. 27 (30 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
- A short to ground in the wire
- An open in the wire
B14 BLK Under all conditions Measure the voltage to ground: There should be less than 0.5 V. - Poor ground (G501)
- An open in the wire