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Driver's Multiplex Control Unit

  1. Remove the driver's multiplex control unit from the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box.
  2. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
    • If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
    • If the terminals look OK, go to step 3.

      DRIVER'S UNDER-DASH FUSE/RELAY BOX SOCKET (Driver's multiplex control unit connector A) 

      Fig 1: Identifying Driver's Multiplex Control Unit Connector A
      G04548299Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.

      DRIVER'S MULTIPLEX CONTROL UNIT CONNECTOR B 

      Fig 2: Identifying Driver's Multiplex Control Unit Connector B
      G04548300Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.

      DRIVER'S UNDER-DASH FUSE/RELAY BOX CONNECTOR J 

      Fig 3: Identifying Driver's Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Connector J
      G04548301Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.

      DRIVER'S UNDER-DASH FUSE/RELAY BOX CONNECTOR M 

      Fig 4: Identifying Driver's Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box Connector M
      G04548302Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
  3. With the driver's multiplex control unit still disconnected, make these input tests at the connector and driver's under-dash fuse/relay box socket.
    • If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
    • If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 4.
      CONTROL CIRCUIT INPUT TEST REFERENCE

      Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if result is not obtained
      A12 Fuse/relay box socket Under all conditions Check for voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage.
      • Blown No. 13 (7.5A) fuse in the passenger's under-dash fuse/relay box
      • Faulty driver's under-dash fuse/relay box
      • An open in the wire
      A14 Under all conditions Check for continuity to ground: There should be continuity.
      • Poor ground (G401)
      • Faulty driver's under-dash fuse/relay box
      • An open in the wire
      B3
      B4
      ORN/WHT and WHT/YEL Adjusting dial rotated Check for resistance between the B3 and B4 terminals: There should be 0-20 kohm as the dial is rotated.
      • Faulty dash lights brightness controller
      • An open in the wire
  4. Reconnect the driver's multiplex control unit to the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box, and perform the following input tests at the appropriate connectors on the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box.
    • If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
    • If all the input tests prove OK, the driver's multiplex control unit must be faulty; replace it.
      CONTROL CIRCUIT INPUT TEST REFERENCE

      Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if result is not obtained
      M3 RED/BLK Combination light switch ON (Parking or Headlight position) Check for voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage.
      • Blown No. 54 (40 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box
      • Blown No. 10 (15 A) fuse in the passenger's under-dash fuse/relay box
      • Faulty taillight relay
      • Faulty combination light switch
      • An open in the wire
      • Faulty driver's multiplex control unit (EX and EXL)
      J6 RED Combination light switch ON (Parking or Headlight position), set dash lights brightness controller to minimum setting Attach to ground: Dash lights should come on full bright. An open in the wire
      B3
      B4
      ORN/WHT and WHT/YEL Combination light switch ON (Parking or Headlight position) Jump wire from B3 to B4: Dash lights should come on full bright.
      • An open in RED wire
      • Faulty driver's multiplex control unit (EX and EXL)
      • Faulty driver's under-dash fuse/relay box