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Symptom Troubleshooting Index

NOTE: Check for DTCs with the HDS and troubleshoot those first before following the repair procedures listed in the index.
SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX

Symptom Probable cause(s) Notes
HDS does not communicate with the PCM DLC circuit Troubleshoot the DLC circuit (see DLC CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING ).
When you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), the D indicator comes on and stays on in all shift lever positions, or it never comes on at all
  • F-CAN communication line error
  • Gauge control module defective
  • PCM defective
  • Check the F-CAN communication line for a DTC (see DTC TROUBLESHOOTING ).
  • Check the F-CAN communication line by using the gauge control module self-diagnostic function (see SELF-DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION ).
  • Check the indicator drive circuit in the gauge control module by using the gauge control module self-diagnostic function (see SELF-DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION ).
A/T gear position indicator does not come on while the shift lever is in that position; shift indicator does not work
  • F-CAN communication line error
  • Gauge control module defective
  • PCM defective
  • Transmission range switch defective or out of adjustment
  • Shift cable broken or out of adjustment
  • Connection between shift cable and transmission or shift lever is worn
  • Check the F-CAN communication line for a DTC (see DTC TROUBLESHOOTING ).
  • Check the F-CAN communication line by using the gauge control module self-diagnostic function (see SELF-DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION ).
  • Check the indicator drive circuit in the gauge control module by using the gauge control module self-diagnostic function (see SELF-DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION ).
  • Check for a stored DTC, and check for loose connections.
  • Inspect the transmission range switch. If the transmission range switch fails the inspection, replace the switch. If the inspection is OK, check for proper transmission range switch installation, and adjust the shift cable.
  • Check for a loose shift cable at the shift lever and the selector control lever.
Speedometer does not work
  • F-CAN communication line error
  • Gauge control module defective
  • PCM defective
  • Output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor defective
  • Check the F-CAN communication line for a DTC (see DTC TROUBLESHOOTING ).
  • Check the F-CAN communication line by using the gauge control module self-diagnostic function (see SELF-DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION ).
  • Check the speedmeter drive circuit in the gauge control module using the HDS.
  • Check for a stored DTC, and check for loose connections.
  • Check the speed sensor installation.
  • Inspect the sensor O-ring for wear and damage.
Transmission still shifts into 4th or 5th gear in D even though the D3 switch is pushed A problem in the D3 switch circuit
Shift lever cannot be moved from P while pressing on the brake pedal
  • Accelerator pedal position sensor circuit
  • Accelerator pedal position sensor defective
  • Brake pedal position switch circuit
  • Brake pedal position switch defective
  • Shift lock solenoid defective
  • Shift lock solenoid control circuit
  • Shift lock mechanism defective
  • Throttle body defective
  • Transmission range switch ATPP switch stuck OFF
  • Transmission range switch ATPP switch circuit open
  • PCM defective
Ignition switch cannot be moved from ACCESSORY (1) to LOCK (0) (key is pushed in, the shift lever in P) A problem in the key interlock system of the interlock system Check the interlock system-key interlock system circuit (see Shift Lock System Circuit Troubleshooting  ).
When you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), the D3 indicator comes on and stays on in all shift lever positions, or it never comes on at all
  • Gauge control module defective
  • PCM defective
  • F-CAN circuit defective
  • Check the indicator drive circuit in the gauge control module by using the gauge control module self-diagnostic function (see SELF-DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION ).
  • Check for a short or an open in F-CAN wires between PCM and gauge control module.
Engine runs, but vehicle does not move in any gear
  • Low ATF level
  • Shift cable broken or out of adjustment
  • Connection between shift cable and transmission or shift lever is worm
  • ATF pump worn or binding
  • Regulator valve stuck or spring worn
  • ATF strainer clogged
  • Foreign material in separator plate orifice
  • Mainshaft worn or damaged
  • Countershaft worn or damaged
  • Final gears worn or damaged
  • Park mechanism defective
  • Selector control shaft worn or damaged
  • Drive plate defective
  • Torque converter defective
  • Transmission-to-engine assembly error
  • Axle disengaged
  • Check the ATF level, and check the ATF cooler line for leaks and loose connections. If necessary, clean the ATF cooler lines.
  • Check for a loose shift cable at the shift lever and the selector control lever.
  • Check the stall speed (see STALL SPEED TEST ).
  • Check the line pressure (see PRESSURE TEST ).
  • Improper alignment of ATF pump and torque converter housing may cause the ATF pump seizure.
  • The symptoms are mostly an rpm-related ticking noise or a high pitched squeak.
  • Check the regulator valve in the regulator valve body for free movement, and check the valve springs for wear and damage.
  • Check the ATF strainer for debris. If the strainer is clogged, find the damaged components that caused the debris. If no cause for contamination is found, replace the torque converter.
  • Check for a clogged orifice in the separator plate. If the orifice is clogged, remove it and clean the separator plate orifice.
  • Inspect the differential pinion gears for wear. If the differential pinion gears are worn, replace the differential assembly, replace the ATF strainer, thoroughly clean the transmission, and clean the cooler and lines.
  • Replace the torque converter.
  • Be careful not to damage the torque converter housing when replacing the main ball bearing. You may also damage the ATF pump when you torque down the main valve body. This will cause the ATF pump seizure, use the proper tools.
  • Install the main seal flush with the torque converter housing. If you push it into the torque converter housing until it bottoms out, it will block the fluid return passage and result in damage.
  • Inspect the countershaft, the secondary shaft, and the mainshaft for wear and damage.
  • Inspect the park mechanism at the park lever link, park gear, and 2nd gears.
  • Check the drive plate for wear and damage, replace the drive plate if it is worn or damaged.
  • Check for a misinstalled transmission.
Vehicle moves in R, but not in D, 2, or 1
  • 1st accumulator defective
  • Idler gears worn or damaged
  • 1st clutch defective
  • 5th clutch defective
  • Check the 1st and 5th clutch pressure (see PRESSURE TEST ).
  • Inspect the mainshaft, the countershaft, the secondary shaft, the intermediary shaft, and the idler gears for wear and damage.
  • Inspect the 1st clutch for wear and damage.
  • Inspect the clutch piston, the clutch piston check valve, and the O-rings. Check the spring retainer for wear, damage, and peeling. Inspect the clearance between the clutch end-plate and the top disc. If the clearance is out of tolerance, inspect the clutch discs and the plates for wear and damage, and inspect the clutch wave-plate height. If the discs and the plates are worn or damaged, replace them as a set. If the wave-plate height is out of the tolerance, replace the wave-plate. If they are OK, adjust the clearance with the clutch end-plate.
  • Check the 1st accumulator piston, O-ring, and spring in the accumulator body for wear and damage.
Vehicle moves in 2 and R, but not in D or 1
  • 1st gear one-way clutch defective
  • 1st gears worn or damaged
  • 1st clutch defective
  • Check the 1st clutch pressure (see PRESSURE TEST ).
  • Inspect the mainshaft, the countershaft, 1st gears, and the one-way clutch for wear and damage.
  • Inspect the 1st clutch for wear and damage.
  • Inspect the clutch piston, the clutch piston check valve, and the O-rings. Check the spring retainer for wear, damage, and peeling. Inspect the clearance between the clutch end-plate and the top disc. If the clearance is out of tolerance, inspect the clutch discs and the plates for wear and damage, and inspect the clutch wave-plate height. If the discs and the plates are worn or damaged, replace them as a set. If the wave-plate height is out of the tolerance, replace the wave-plate. If they are OK, adjust the clearance with the clutch end-plate.
Vehicle moves in D, 2, and R, but not in 1 1st-hold clutch defective
  • Check the 1st-hold clutch pressure (see PRESSURE TEST ).
  • Inspect the 1st-hold clutch for wear and damage.
  • Inspect the clutch piston, the clutch piston check valve, and the O-rings. Check the spring retainer for wear, damage, and peeling. Inspect the clearance between the clutch plate B and the top disc. If the clearance is out of tolerance, inspect the clutch discs and the plates for wear and damage, and inspect the clutch wave-plate height. If the discs and the plates are worn or damaged, replace them as a set. If the wave-plate height is out of the tolerance, replace the wave-plate.
Vehicle moves in D, 1, and R, but not in 2
  • 2nd accumulator defective
  • 2nd clutch defective
  • Check the 2nd clutch pressure (see PRESSURE TEST ).
  • Inspect the 2nd clutch for wear and damage.
  • Inspect the clutch piston, the clutch piston check valve, and the O-rings. Check the spring retainer for wear, damage, and peeling. Inspect the clearance between the clutch end-plate and the top disc. If the clearance is out of tolerance, inspect the clutch discs and the plates for wear and damage, and inspect the clutch wave-plate height. If the discs and the plates are worn or damaged, replace them as a set. If the wave-plate height is out of the tolerance, replace the wave-plate. If they are OK, adjust the clearance with the clutch end-plate.
  • Check the 2nd accumulator piston, O-ring, and spring in the accumulator body for wear and damage.
Vehicle moves in D, 2, and 1, but not in R (or moves forward in R)
  • Shift fork shaft stuck
  • 5th accumulator defective
  • 5th clutch defective
  • Reverse gears worn or damaged
  • Reverse idler gear shaft/holder worn or damaged
  • Reverse selector or reverse selector hub worn or damaged
  • Check for a missing shift fork bolt on the shift fork shaft.
  • Check the shift fork shaft detent for wear and damage.
  • Check for a stuck servo valve in the regulator valve body, and check the O-ring for wear and damage.
  • Check the stall speed in R (see STALL SPEED TEST ).
  • Check the 5th clutch pressure (see PRESSURE TEST ).
  • Inspect the 5th clutch for wear and damage.
  • Inspect the clutch piston, the clutch piston check valve, and the O-rings. Check the spring retainer for wear, damage, and peeling. Inspect the clearance between the clutch end-plate and the top disc. If the clearance is out of tolerance, inspect the clutch discs and the plates for wear and damage, and inspect the clutch wave-plate height. If the discs and the plates are worn or damaged, replace them as a set. If the wave-plate height is out of the tolerance, replace the wave-plate. If they are OK, adjust the clearance with the clutch end-plate.
  • Check the 5th accumulator piston, the O-ring, and the spring in the accumulator body for wear and damage.
  • Inspect the reverse idler gear shaft/holder for wear and damage.
  • Inspect the reverse selector gear teeth chamfers, and inspect the engagement teeth chamfers of the countershaft 5th gear and reverse gear.
  • Replace the reverse gears and the reverse selector if they are worn or damaged. If the transmission makes clicking, grinding, or whirring noises, also replace the mainshaft 5th gear, the reverse idler gear, and the countershaft 5th gear.
Poor acceleration; flares when starting off in D and R
  • Low ATF level
  • Shift cable broken or out of adjustment
  • ATF pump worn or binding
  • Regulator valve stuck or spring worn
  • Stator shaft worn or damaged
  • ATF strainer clogged
  • Torque converter one-way clutch defective
  • Torque converter check valve defective
  • Shift valve E defective
  • Check the ATF level, and check the ATF cooler line for leakage and loose connections. If necessary, clean the ATF cooler lines.
  • Check for a loose shift cable at the shift lever and the selector control lever.
  • Check the stall speed (see STALL SPEED TEST ).
  • Check the line pressure (see PRESSURE TEST ).
  • Improper alignment of ATF pump and torque converter housing may cause the ATF pump seizure. The symptoms are mostly an rpm-related ticking noise or a high pitched squeak.
  • Check the regulator valve in the regulator valve body for free movement, and check the valve springs for wear and damage.
  • Check the stator shaft splines for wear and damage.
  • Check the ATF strainer for debris. If the strainer is clogged, find the damaged components that caused the debris. If no cause for contamination is found, replace the torque converter.
  • Check the torque converter check valve in the main valve body for free movement, and check the valve spring for wear and damage.
  • Check the shift valve E in the main valve body for free movement, and check the valve spring for wear and damage.
  • Replace the torque converter.
Poor acceleration; flares when starting off in D and R; stall speed high in D, 2, and 1
  • Low ATF level
  • 1st accumulator defective
  • 1st clutch defective
  • Check the ATF level, and check the ATF cooler line for leakage and loose connections. If necessary, clean the ATF cooler lines.
  • Check the 1st clutch pressure (see PRESSURE TEST ).
  • Inspect the 1st clutch for wear and damage.
  • Inspect the clutch piston, the clutch piston check valve, and the O-rings. Check the spring retainer for wear, damage, and peeling. Inspect the clearance between the clutch end-plate and the top disc. If the clearance is out of tolerance, inspect the clutch discs and the plates for wear and damage, and inspect the clutch wave-plate height. If the discs and the plates are worn or damaged, replace them as a set. If the wave-plate height is out of the tolerance, replace the wave-plate. If they are OK, adjust the clearance with the clutch end-plate.
  • Check the 1st accumulator piston, O-ring, and spring in the accumulator body for wear and damage.
Poor acceleration; flares when starting off in D and R; stall speed high in 1
  • Low ATF level
  • 1st-hold clutch defective
  • Check the ATF level, and check the ATF cooler line for leakage and loose connections. If necessary, clean the ATF cooler lines.
  • Check the 1st-hold clutch pressure (see PRESSURE TEST ).
  • Inspect the 1st-hold clutch for wear and damage.
  • Inspect the clutch piston, the clutch piston check valve, and the O-rings. Check the spring retainer for wear, damage, and peeling. Inspect the clearance between the clutch plate B and the top disc. If the clearance is out of tolerance, inspect the clutch discs and the plates for wear and damage, and inspect the clutch wave-plate height. If the discs and the plates are worn or damaged, replace them as a set. If the wave-plate height is out of the tolerance, replace the wave-plate.
Poor acceleration; flares when starting off in D and R; stall speed high in 2
  • Low ATF level
  • 2nd accumulator defective
  • 2nd clutch defective
  • Check the ATF level, and check the ATF cooler line for leakage and loose connections. If necessary, clean the ATF cooler lines.
  • Check the 2nd clutch pressure (see PRESSURE TEST ).
  • Inspect the 2nd clutch for wear and damage.
  • Inspect the clutch piston, the clutch piston check valve, and the O-rings. Check the spring retainer for wear, damage, and peeling. Inspect the clearance between the clutch end-plate and the top disc. If the clearance is out of tolerance, inspect the clutch discs and the plates for wear and damage, and inspect the clutch wave-plate height. If the discs and the plates are worn or damaged, replace them as a set. If the wave-plate height is out of the tolerance, replace the wave-plate. If they are OK, adjust the clearance with the clutch end-plate.
  • Check the 2nd accumulator piston, O-ring, and spring in the accumulator body for wear and damage.
Poor acceleration; flares when starting off in D and R; stall speed high in R
  • Low ATF level
  • Shift cable broken or out of adjustment
  • 5th accumulator defective
  • 5th clutch defective
  • Check the ATF level, and check the ATF cooler line for leakage and loose connections. If necessary, clean the ATF cooler lines.
  • Check for a loose shift cable at the shift lever and the selector control lever.
  • Check the stall speed in R (see STALL SPEED TEST ).
  • Check the 5th clutch pressure (see PRESSURE TEST ).
  • Inspect the 5th clutch for wear and damage.
  • Inspect the clutch piston, the clutch piston check valve, and the O-rings. Check the spring retainer for wear, damage, and peeling. Inspect the clearance between the clutch end-plate and the top disc. If the clearance is out of tolerance, inspect the clutch discs and the plates for wear and damage, and inspect the clutch wave-plate height. If the discs and the plates are worn or damaged, replace them as a set. If the wave-plate height is out of the tolerance, replace the wave-plate. If they are OK, adjust the clearance with the clutch end-plate.
  • Check the 5th accumulator piston, O-ring, and spring in the accumulator body for wear and damage.
Engine idle vibration; engine stalls, idles low or rough
  • Worn engine or transmission mounts
  • Low ATF level
  • Shift solenoid valve D defective
  • Engine output low
  • Torque converter clutch piston defective
  • Lock-up control valve defective
  • Lock-up timing valve defective
  • A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C defective
  • Check the engine and transmission mounts.
  • Check the ATF level and check the ATF cooler lines for leaks and loose connections. If necessary, clean the ATF cooler lines.
  • Inspect the shift solenoid valve D function with the HDS (see SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE TEST, REPLACEMENT, AND SHIFT SOLENOID WIRE HARNESS REPLACEMENT ).
  • Check for a seized shift solenoid valve, and inspect the O-rings.
  • Check for a stored DTC, and check for loose connectors.
  • Replace the torque converter.
  • Check the lock-up control valve in the regulator valve body for free movement, and check the valve spring for wear and damage.
  • Check the lock-up timing valve in the main valve body for free movement, and check the valve spring for wear and damage.
  • Inspect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C with the HDS (see A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE C TEST ).
Vehicle moves in N
  • Excessive ATF
  • ATF temperature sensor defective
  • Foreign material in separator plate orifice
  • Relief valve defective
  • Reverse control valve defective
  • Lubrication control valve defective
  • 1st-hold clutch defective
  • 1st clutch defective
  • 2nd clutch defective
  • 3rd clutch defective
  • 4th clutch defective
  • 5th clutch defective
  • Clutch end-plate clearance incorrect
  • Needle bearing seized, worn, or damaged
  • Thrust washer seized, worn or damaged
  • Check the ATF level, and drain the ATF if it is over-filled.
  • Check the sensor O-ring for wear and damage.
  • Check all clutch pressures (see PRESSURE TEST ).
  • Check for a clogged orifice in the separator plate. If the orifice is clogged, remove it and clean the separator plate orifice.
  • Check the relief valve and the lubrication control valve in the main valve body for free movement, and check the valve springs for wear and damage.
  • Check the reverse control valve in the secondary valve body for free movement, and check the valve spring for wear and damage.
  • Check the stall speed (see STALL SPEED TEST ).
  • Inspect all clutches for wear and damage.
  • Inspect the clutch piston, the clutch piston check valve, and the O-rings. Check the spring retainer for wear, damage, and peeling. Inspect the clearance between the clutch end-plate and the top disc. If the clearance is out of tolerance, inspect the clutch discs and the plates for wear and damage, and inspect the clutch wave-plate height. If the discs and the plates are worn or damaged, replace them as a set. If the wave-plate height is out of the tolerance, replace the wave-plate. If they are OK, adjust the clearance with the clutch end-plate.
  • Check the needle bearings and thrust washers on all shafts for seizure, wear, and damage.
Delayed engagement after shifting from N to D, or excessive shock when shifting
  • Shift solenoid valve A defective
  • Shift solenoid valve B defective
  • Shift solenoid valve C defective
  • A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C defective
  • Shift cable broken or out of adjustment
  • Connection between shift cable and transmission or shift lever is worn
  • ATF temperature sensor defective
  • CPC valve C stuck
  • ATF strainer clogged
  • Foreign material in separator plate orifice
  • Shift valve A defective
  • Shift valve D defective
  • Servo control valve defective
  • 1st accumulator defective
  • 2nd accumulator defective
  • 1st check ball stuck
  • 1st clutch defective
  • Clearance between clutch end-plate and top disc incorrect
  • Check for a stored DTC, and check for loose connectors.
  • Inspect the shift solenoid valve function with the HDS (see SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE TEST, REPLACEMENT, AND SHIFT SOLENOID WIRE HARNESS REPLACEMENT ).
  • Check for a seized shift solenoid valve, and inspect the O-rings.
  • Inspect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve with the HDS.
  • Inspect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve body gasket, ATF feed pipes, and O-rings for wear and damage.
  • Check for a loose shift cable at the shift lever and the selector control lever.
  • Inspect the sensor O-ring for wear and damage.
  • Check for a clogged orifice in the separator plate. If the orifice is clogged, remove it and clean the separator plate orifice.
  • Check the stall speed (see STALL SPEED TEST ).
  • Check the line pressure (see PRESSURE TEST ).
  • Check the ATF strainer for debris. If the strainer is clogged, find the damaged components that caused the debris. If no cause for contamination is found, replace the torque converter.
  • Check CPC valve C in the secondary valve body for free movement, and check the valve spring for wear and damage.
  • Check shift valve A in the main valve body for free movement, and check the valve spring for wear and damage.
  • Check shift valve D in the secondary valve body for free movement, and check the valve spring for wear and damage.
  • Check the 1st clutch pressure (see PRESSURE TEST ).
  • Inspect the clutch piston, the clutch piston check valve, and the O-rings. Check the spring retainer for wear and damage. Inspect the clearance between the clutch end-plate and the top disc. If the clearance is out of tolerance, inspect the clutch discs and the plates for wear and damage, and inspect the clutch wave-plate height. If the discs and the flat-plates are worn or damaged, replace the discs and the flat-plates as a set. If the wave-plate height is out of tolerance, replace the wave-plate. If the discs and the plates are OK, adjust the clearance with the clutch end-plate.
  • Check the 1st and 2nd accumulator piston, the O-ring, and the springs in the accumulator body for wear and damage.
  • Check for a stuck 1st check ball in the secondary valve body.
Delayed engagement after shifting from N to R, or excessive shock when shifting
  • Worn engine or transmission mounts
  • A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C defective
  • Shift cable broken or out of adjustment
  • Connection between shift cable and transmission or shift lever is worn
  • ATF temperature sensor defective
  • Reverse CPC valve defective
  • ATF strainer clogged
  • Foreign material in separator plate orifice
  • 5th clutch defective
  • Clearance between the clutch end-plate and the top disc incorrect
  • Check the engine and transmission mounts.
  • Check for a stored DTC, and check for loose connectors.
  • Inspect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve with the HDS.
  • Inspect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve body gasket and ATF feed pipes for wear and damage. If the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve is stuck, inspect the CPC valves.
  • Check for a loose shift cable at the shift lever and the selector control lever.
  • Check the stall speed (see STALL SPEED TEST ).
  • Check the line pressure (see PRESSURE TEST ).
  • Check the ATF strainer for debris. If the strainer is clogged, find the damaged components that caused the debris. If no cause for contamination is found, replace the torque converter.
  • Check for a clogged orifice in the separator plate. If the orifice is clogged, remove it and clean the separator plate orifice.
  • Check the stall speed in R (see STALL SPEED TEST ).
  • Check the 5th clutch pressure (see PRESSURE TEST ).
  • Inspect the clutch piston, the clutch piston check valve, and the O-rings. Check the spring retainer for wear and damage. Inspect the clearance between the clutch end-plate and the top disc. If the clearance is out of tolerance, inspect the clutch discs and the plates for wear and damage, and inspect the clutch wave-plate height. If the discs and the flat-plates are worn or damaged, replace the discs and the flat-plates as a set. If the wave-plate height is out of tolerance, replace the wave-plate. If the discs and the plates are OK, adjust the clearance with the clutch end-plate.
Transmission does not shift
  • Input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor defective
  • Output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor defective
  • Modulator valve defective
  • Engine output low
  • Check for a stored DTC, and check for loose connectors.
  • Inspect the sensor O-rings.
  • Check the line pressure (see PRESSURE TEST ).
  • Check the fuel pressure (see FUEL PRESSURE TEST ).
  • Check for exhaust restriction.
  • Check for intake restriction.
  • Check the VTEC rocker arm.
Excessive shock or flares on all upshifts and downshifts
  • Worn engine or transmission mounts
  • Input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor defective
  • Output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor defective
  • ATF temperature sensor defective
  • Foreign material in separator plate orifice
  • Check the engine and transmission mounts.
  • Check for a stored DTC, and check for loose connectors.
  • Inspect the sensor O-rings.
  • Check for a clogged orifice in the separator plate. If the orifice is clogged, remove it and clean the separator plate orifice.
Excessive shock or flares on 1-2 upshift or 2-1 downshift
  • Worn engine or transmission mounts
  • Shift solenoid valve A defective
  • Shift solenoid valve C defective
  • Shift solenoid valve D defective
  • A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A defective
  • A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B defective
  • A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C defective
  • Transmission fluid pressure switch A (2nd clutch) defective
  • CPC valve A defective
  • CPC valve B defective
  • CPC valve C defective
  • Shift valve C defective
  • Shift valve D defective
  • Foreign material in separator plate orifice
  • 2nd accumulator defective
  • 2nd check ball stuck
  • 2nd clutch defective
  • Clearance between clutch end-plate and top disc incorrect
  • Check the engine and transmission mounts.
  • Check for a stored DTC, and check for loose connectors.
  • inspect the shift solenoid valve function with the HDS (see SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE TEST, REPLACEMENT, AND SHIFT SOLENOID WIRE HARNESS REPLACEMENT ).
  • Inspect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve body gasket and the ATF feed pipes for wear and damage. If the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve is stuck, inspect the CPC valves.
  • Check for a clogged orifice in the transmission fluid pressure switch connector. If the orifice is clogged, remove it and clean the connector.
  • Check the 1st and 2nd clutch pressures (see PRESSURE TEST ).
  • Inspect the clutch piston, the clutch piston check valve, and the O-rings. Check the spring retainer for wear and damage. Inspect the clearance between the clutch end-plate and the top disc. If the clearance is out of tolerance, inspect the clutch discs and the plates for wear and damage, and inspect the clutch wave-plate height. If the discs and the flat-plates are worn or damaged, replace the discs and the flat-plates as a set. If the wave-plate height is out of tolerance, replace the wave-plate. If the discs and the plates are OK, adjust the clearance with the clutch end-plate.
Excessive shock or flares on 2-3 upshift or 3-2 downshift
  • Worn engine or transmission mounts
  • Shift solenoid valve D defective
  • A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B defective
  • A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C defective
  • Transmission fluid pressure switch B (3rd clutch) defective
  • Shift fork shaft stuck
  • Servo control valve defective
  • CPC valve A defective
  • CPC valve B defective
  • Foreign material in separator plate orifice
  • Lock-up shift valve defective
  • Shift valve C defective
  • 2nd accumulator defective
  • 3rd accumulator defective
  • 2nd check ball stuck
  • 2nd clutch defective
  • 3rd clutch defective
  • Clearance between clutch end-plate and top disc incorrect
  • Check the engine and transmission mounts.
  • Check for a stored DTC, and check for loose connectors.
  • Inspect the O-rings, and check for a seized shift solenoid valve.
  • Inspect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve body gasket and the ATF feed pipes for wear and damage. If the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve is stuck, inspect the CPC valves.
  • Check for a clogged orifice in the transmission fluid pressure switch connector. If the orifice is clogged, remove it and clean the connector.
  • Check for a missing shift fork bolt on the shift fork shaft.
  • Check the shift fork shaft detent for wear and damage.
  • Check for a stuck servo valve in the regulator valve body, and check the O-ring for wear and damage.
  • Check the servo control valve, CPC valve A, and lock-up shift valve in the main valve body for free movement, and check the valve springs for wear and damage.
  • Check the 2nd and 3rd clutch pressures (see PRESSURE TEST ).
  • Inspect the clutch piston, the clutch piston check valve, and the O-rings. Check the spring retainer for wear and damage. Inspect the clearance between the clutch end-plate and the top disc. If the clearance is out of tolerance, inspect the clutch discs and the plates for wear and damage, and inspect the clutch wave-plate height. If the discs and the flat-plates are worn or damaged, replace the discs and the flat-plates as a set. If the wave-plate height is out of tolerance, replace the wave-plate. If the discs and the plates are OK, adjust the clearance with the clutch end-plate.
Excessive shock or flares on 3-4 upshift or 4-3 downshift
  • Worn engine or transmission mounts
  • A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A defective
  • A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B defective
  • A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C defective
  • 4th clutch transmission fluid pressure switch defective
  • Shift fork shaft stuck
  • Servo control valve defective
  • Foreign material in separator plate orifice
  • 3rd accumulator defective
  • 4th accumulator defective
  • 3rd clutch defective
  • 4th clutch defective
  • Clearance between clutch end-plate and top disc incorrect
  • Check the engine and transmission mounts.
  • Check for a stored DTC, and check for loose connectors.
  • Inspect the O-rings, and check for a seized shift solenoid valve.
  • Inspect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve body gasket and the ATF feed pipes for wear and damage. If the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve is stuck, inspect the CPC valves.
  • Check for a clogged orifice in the transmission fluid pressure switch connector. If the orifice is clogged, remove it and clean the connector.
  • Check the 3rd and 4th clutch pressures (see PRESSURE TEST ).
  • Inspect the clutch piston, the clutch piston check valve, and the O-rings. Check the spring retainer for wear and damage. Inspect the clearance between the clutch end-plate and the top disc. If the clearance is out of tolerance, inspect the clutch discs and the plates for wear and damage, and inspect the clutch wave-plate height. If the discs and the flat-plates are worn or damaged, replace the discs and the flat-plates as a set. If the wave-plate height is out of tolerance, replace the wave-plate. If the discs and the plates are OK, adjust the clearance with the clutch end-plate.
Excessive shock or flares on 4-5 upshift or 5-4 downshift
  • A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A defective
  • A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B defective
  • A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C defective
  • Foreign material in separator plate orifice
  • 4th accumulator defective
  • 5th accumulator defective
  • 4th clutch defective
  • 5th clutch defective
  • Clearance between clutch end-plate and top disc incorrect
  • Check for a stored DTC, and check for loose connectors.
  • Inspect the O-rings, and check for a seized shift solenoid valve.
  • Inspect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve body gasket and the ATF feed pipes for wear and damage. If the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve is stuck, inspect the CPC valves.
  • Check the 4th and 5th clutch pressures (see PRESSURE TEST ).
  • Inspect the clutch piston, the clutch piston check valve, and the O-rings. Check the spring retainer for wear and damage. Inspect the clearance between the clutch end-plate and the top disc. If the clearance is out of tolerance, inspect the clutch discs and the plates for wear and damage, and inspect the clutch wave-plate height. If the discs and the flat-plates are worn or damaged, replace the discs and the flat-plates as a set. If the wave-plate height is out of tolerance, replace the wave-plate. If the discs and the plates are OK, adjust the clearance with the clutch end-plate.
Noise from transmission in all shift lever positions
  • ATF pump worn or binding
  • ATF strainer clogged
  • Mainshaft, countershaft, secondary shaft, and intermediary shaft bearings worn or damaged
  • Idler gears worn or damaged
  • Thrust washer seized, worn, or damaged
Improper alignment of the ATF pump and the torque converter housing may cause the ATF pump seizure. The symptoms are mostly an rpm-related ticking noise or a high pitched squeak.
Vehicle does not accelerate above 31 mph (50 km/h) Torque converter one-way clutch defective Replace the torque converter.
Vibration in all shift lever positions
  • Drive plate defective or transmission misassembled
  • ATF pump worn or binding
  • Check for a misinstalled/damaged drive plate.
  • Adjust the engine and transmission mounts.
  • Check the stall speed (see STALL SPEED TEST ).
  • Improper alignment of ATF pump and torque converter housing may cause the ATF pump seizure. The symptoms are mostly an rpm-related ticking noise or a high pitched squeak.
Shift lever does not operate smoothly
  • Transmission range switch defective or out of adjustment
  • Shift cable broken or out of adjustment
  • Connection between shift cable and transmission or shift lever is worn
  • Manual valve defective
  • Selector control shaft worn or damaged
  • Check for a stored DTC, and check for loose connectors.
  • Inspect the transmission range switch. If the transmission range switch fails the inspection, replace the switch. If the inspection is OK, check for proper transmission range switch installation, and adjust the shift cable.
  • Check for a loose shift cable at the shift lever and the selector control lever.
  • Check the manual valve in the main valve body for wear and damage, and check the manual lever guide pin for wear and damage.
Transmission does not shift into P
  • Shift cable broken or out of adjustment
  • Connection between shift cable and transmission or shift lever is worn
  • Park mechanism defective
  • Secondary shaft 2nd gear worn or damage
  • Check for a loose shift cable at the shift lever and the selector control lever.
  • Check the park pawl, the control shaft, and the park lever link for wear and damage. Check if the control shaft lever pin is disengaged from the manual valve guide.
  • Inspect the 2nd gear.
Torque converter clutch does not operate smoothly; torque converter clutch does not engage or disengage
  • Shift solenoid valve D defective
  • A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C defective
  • Shift cable broken or out of adjustment
  • Connection between shift cable and transmission or shift lever is worn
  • Foreign material in separator plate orifice
  • Torque converter clutch piston defective
  • Torque converter check valve defective
  • Lock-up shift valve defective
  • Lock-up control valve defective
  • Lock-up timing valve defective
  • Check for a stored DTC, and check for loose connectors.
  • Inspect the O-rings, and check for a seized shift solenoid valve.
  • Inspect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C body gasket for wear and damage. If the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C is stuck, inspect the CPC valves.
  • Center all engine mounts.
  • Check for a loose shift cable at the shift lever and the selector control lever.
  • Check for a clogged orifice in the separator plate. If the orifice is clogged, remove it and clean the separator plate orifice.
  • Replace the torque converter.
  • Check the torque converter check valve, the lock-up shift valve, and the lock-up timing valve in the main valve body for free movement, and check the valve springs for wear and damage.
  • Check the lock-up control valve in the regulator valve body for free movement, and check the valve spring for wear and damage.
A/T gear position indicator does not indicate shift lever positions
  • Transmission range switch defective or out of adjustment
  • Shift cable broken or out of adjustment
  • Connection between shift cable and transmission or shift lever is worn
  • Check for a stored DTC, and check for loose connectors.
  • Inspect the transmission range switch. If the transmission range switch fails the inspection, replace the switch. If the inspection is OK, check for proper transmission range switch installation, and adjust the shift cable.
  • Check for a loose shift cable at the shift lever and the selector control lever.